Date registered: Oct 2012
Vehicle: 1972 220 D, 1974 450SL, 1995 E300D 2002 S430, 1976 300D, 1986 SDL, 1982 SD
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Quoted: 284 Post(s)
MAN! Start off with the question that will launch a barrage of responses.
Filter and fluid removal are fairly simple but dirty. Get a TopSider fluid sucker contraption at your local boating store. It allows you to suck out the oil from the dipstick tube instead of spilling it all over the road and driveway. It hold around 2 gallons of fluids, ATF, oil, PS fluid, diff goop (not really). Warm up the engine by taking the car out for an Italian Tune up and when you get back, open the hood, remove the dipstick, stick the sucker tube down the hole and start pumping the hot oil out. You will get far more out this way than getting under the car and pulling the plug. Also saves you from being scalded by hot oil… for a while. AND, it keeps idiots at oil change places from cross threading your drain plug or forgetting it.
With your oil out of the engine, now you get to crawl under the car and search for the filter, which lives behind the power steering pump. It has a 17mm bolt at the bottom that you unscrew. Have a large pan under the filter housing, as it is full of warm oil, as well as the filter. When you loosen the bolt, a flood of oil with then travel down your arm and pool in your armpit. Be as quick as you can getting the housing loose and dropped into the pan so you wear less oil. Remove the filter housing from the oil bath and pull both the filter and pre-filter element. Toss the big filter in your waste bin. Take the pre-filter and wash it in kerosene or petrol. Best to have two, one in the car, the other on the shelf. It speeds up oil changes. Allow the pre-filter to dry before installing.
While you are cleaning up the pre-filter, you should use some brake cleaner to wash down the interior and exterior of the filter housing. Replace the housing O-ring and the pipe o-ring as well. There can also be a crushable washer at the base of the housing by the 17mm bolt. Change that if it looks like it wants to be new. With it all clean, slip the new main filter in (do not use the garbage folded paper filters) and then put the pre filter in, being sure to get it facing the proper direction. Get back under the car and then try to convince the filter housing to go back from whence it came. You are allowed, actually encouraged to use harsh language while engaged in this activity. Secure it once you have made certain you have not gotten it all cross threaded.
Personal opinion guides most users as to which oil brand they prefer. I like Mobil 1 15-50. It is diesel rated and good for our older engines. Many people use Rotella or Delo. Do not use petrol car oil. It does not work in our cars very well.
There are two fuel filters. One should be the smaller one that is transparent, the other lives in a metal housing. Replace the pre-filter (small one) making sure the fuel flows in the proper direction. The larger filter needs the bolt on the top loosened and some fuel may spill out. CAREFULLY, so you do not gush all the fuel in the container out, pull the old filter and allow it to drain. IT should be a solid cloth looking thing. Replace it with the exact same looking filter. DO NOT use the folded paper filters. They are garbage and will crush. Slowly insert the new filter into the pot and allow it to soak up fuel so none spills out. Once it is all the way in, you can screw the top back on.
You should find a manual pump down by the injector pump. You will want to give it around 20 pumps so you prime the system and get fuel filling all the filter housings. IT also gets fuel into the injector pump should there have been air getting into fuel lines while you changed filter.
With the oil filter secured in its housing you can pour four or five quarts of oil into the 730 or 710 hole. You need to remove the 710/730 cap to access it. Allow a goodly number of minutes for the initial oil charge to make its way down to the sump. Put the dip stick back in the tube and see if it finds oil. Add a quart at a time until you get some oil at the tip of the stick. Slowly add oil, checking level until you reach half way between the add and full mark on the dip stick.
Start the car and make sure the oil pressure gauge measures 3 bar. Run the motor for a minute or two to get oil into the filter housing. While the car is running, pop your head under the car to see if you are leaking fluids. Make sure you have secured the 710/730 cap before you start the car. Stop the car if you find any leaks, or a minute has passed.
Wait five minutes or so. Go get a beer, a soda, some sweet tea, and relax. This gives the oil time to settle back into the sump and you will whip out the dipstick and check how much more oil you need to add.
74 450SL - Froggy
'02 s320 - Victor
'86 300SDL - Polei
'82 300SD - Allen
'76 300D - Voldemort
'95 E300D - Cleo
'72 220D - Gump
'87 300SDL - POS SDL
92 300SE - #1 boys ride