W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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The most confusing part is that when I disconnected the fuel line from the inlet side of the fuel pump I was able to suck fuel into the filter, my filter is before the pump, and got a mouth full of gas, but the pump couldn't suck fuel into the filter until primed with starting fluid. I did notice that the inlet rubber fuel line pulled off pretty easily so I tightened the clamp better when I put the line back on.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 01:35 PM
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I had similiar issues, turned out, it was the in tank fuel strainer.
It would be worth it for you to pull the tank strainer and inspect it for peace of mind and to eliminate that from the list of possible causes.

Check out this thread.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vint...nk-looked.html

Last edited by Luna Gaudi's 72 250; 04-26-2015 at 01:38 PM.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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You've made a believer out of me. I'll get the fuel out and replace that filter. As you said, it's worth doing even if it's for the peace of mind.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 06:43 PM
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Dan: it doesn't look like you mentioned anything to the forum about your belief that your filter is before the pump. I think that if your filter gets clogged, your pump is going to run dry much faster. Dry pumps are bad. They do nothing. On the other hand, if the pump is wet and simply has to push through a clogged up filter, that's normally ok. High pump head is nowhere near the problem of a dry pump.

Here are some of the pictures Dan texted me:

W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed-imageuploadedbyautoguide1430095149.856407.jpg
W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed-imageuploadedbyautoguide1430095167.856294.jpg
W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed-imageuploadedbyautoguide1430095184.538825.jpg
W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed-imageuploadedbyautoguide1430095245.672943.jpg
W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed-imageuploadedbyautoguide1430095268.639527.jpg
W114 Fuel Delivery Advice Needed-imageuploadedbyautoguide1430095290.256156.jpg

.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for posting pics Fonzi. I mentioned the filter location in post 11, but I think the general consensus is that the tank filter is the problem. I'm going to address the tank filter, under car fuel lines, and heat risers, just to make sure I cover all my bases. I figure it sure can't hurt to do that stuff. It's probably long overdue.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 08:22 AM
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looking at the fuel filter picture , put it down by the fuel pump , keep it away from the spark plug wires !!!!! . screen numb is 111 470 06 86 , make sure you get a o ring with it .you can replace it without draining gas tank , put pan under , with car on ground , unscrew and swap quick , you will loose little gas , speed is the essence .
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 08:31 AM
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looking at your picture of the carb synch set up , you use 2 cans and 2 synch tools , you should use one synch tool , not 2 , also for this set up to work right , you should cap of the hole that access the choke flap rod .
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 01:21 PM
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The tank strainer, not sure I'd remove it with a tank full of fuel on top of it. It makes like a 1 in dis hole in the bottom of a 10 gallon fuel load. I'm telling you it isn't an easy thing while the car is on a rack and you can move freely. I have done it and I would take a few minutes and drain it into another tank/ gas can or whatever. As for the in line fuel filter it shouldn't be on the suction side of the pump but if you need one then put it right above the pump discharge port. I don't believe this car had one in the area of the pump to start with. Clean rule is important but that little pump isn't up to sucking fuel through a mud filled sock.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agillot View Post
looking at your picture of the carb synch set up , you use 2 cans and 2 synch tools , you should use one synch tool , not 2 , also for this set up to work right , you should cap of the hole that access the choke flap rod .

That was the setup that I made and sent to Dan. I told him that he needs to flip-flop the tools while trying to sync. The tools are adjustable, and I believe they were calibrated equally when I sent them to Dan. I did a lot of flip-flopping.

I understand that you are supposed to use just one tool, but I think a little Heisenberg principal comes into play here. The cans and sync tools do restrict the air flow.

Dan was able to determine that the the rear carb wasn't drawing any air before, but I believe he didn't take note of what changed to make it draw air.

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-27-2015, 01:52 PM
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I ran a dyno for an MB dealer during that period, I was also a foreman during the early times. One cover and one flow meter. linkages between the carbs off and set the base idle while moving front to rear depending on where you start.. Install the linkage tension free and while holding the throttle from the pedal pull rod slightly advance the throttle watching the flow and adjust the linkage so each carb picks up at the same moment. Remove the rear carbs choke high idle screw and set the fast idle while using the front carb only. The timing should have been set prior to this procedure. Have fun, there are no awards for this crap. Make them run good and enjoy
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