ATE disc brakes W115 inspection and service info - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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ATE disc brakes W115 inspection and service info

Hi, I have a W115 200 with ATE disc brakes in both the front and rear and I was wondering if anyone can give me some info and tips on what to check for and how to service those brakes. I will remove them and paint them so I would love if anyone has any info on how to remove them trouble free.

I noticed that the seals seem to be cracked, what should I look for in that case?

Any tips will be appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone please? :/
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 03:58 PM
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So because you are trying to do this all on a budget, I have a couple of questions. Do your cylinders leak? Are they frozen? Do they work? If they do not leak, are not frozen, and work, I would be tempted to drive out the two pins, replace the pads, bleed the brakes to remove old fluid, and drive it. It doesn't appear that the rotors have any grooves or lips so perhaps the pads are good too. How long has it been since the car was driven?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 04:09 PM
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post 3 is right on .use soft pads like ATE , textar , pagid .to bleed / replace the old brake fluid , just fill master with dot 3 or 4 fluid , open one bleeder at a time , pump pedal , this will expel old fluid , when clean fluid comes out close bleeder, dont push the pedal all way to the floor , put left foot under pedal to act as a stop , have someone to keep filling the reservoir , i would do this before replacing the pads , also when you push the pistons out , open the bleedr to let fluid out .use a piece of vacuum hose at bleeder so you dont make a mess .forget painting .
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2015, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TZ_280SEL View Post
So because you are trying to do this all on a budget, I have a couple of questions. Do your cylinders leak? Are they frozen? Do they work? If they do not leak, are not frozen, and work, I would be tempted to drive out the two pins, replace the pads, bleed the brakes to remove old fluid, and drive it. It doesn't appear that the rotors have any grooves or lips so perhaps the pads are good too. How long has it been since the car was driven?
The car has been sitting there for no less than 3 years. When I moved the car the brakes seemed to work but I can't be completely sure because the car has no engine, I'm rebuilding it. I saw in youtube that those brakes acumulate rust when left like that when the piston seals go bad and that could lead to a frozen piston. It doesn't leak but I'm not sure if they are frozen but since you mentioned it I'm gonna test it. I just jack up the car and start moving the rotors right?

One thing I did know is that those seals are goners, I even took a chunk off of one when I was feeling the rubber. It came off easily. In that case, should I remove the calipers to do a complete inspection?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2015, 08:45 AM
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I think what you have done is just right
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 09:44 AM
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not sure what the condition of the calipers is but they are pretty simple. We used to rebuild them many years back but you may well have issues with moisture/ rust in the system at it's age. Removing the pistons can be a rear chore as one is usually stuck and it takes air pressure to remove them..... potentially dangerous as a piston can fly out under pressure so with all that being said there is yet another situation to consider. The master cylinder hasn't seen any travel for a long time as well so there is likely some rust between the two rubber piston boots and a full depression may may well tear an existing boot. My thoughts are if your not REAL familiar with hydraulic brakes and their repair you might look for a source of rebuilt parts as almost everything that could be wrong likely is at the cars age. Include a complete set of rubber flex hoses as well then you will be able to stop the thing with that new engine. Arn't old cars swell......... Be SAFE
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 12:48 AM
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Replace the brake lines. At this age they are rotten on the inside and will not allow full or proper brake action.

You are going to paint them. I know from your other posts, so remove the whole caliper, put it on a bench and do the whole job right. Get the proper tools, a vise to hold the parts and fresh pads. Measure the rotors for thickness. No use doing all the rebuild work and put them on worn rotors. The rotors are only good for 90k miles (150k km). Get the proper Mercedes rotors, and DO NOT have them turned. New rotors are less than the cost of turning them. Turning Mercedes rotors ruins them.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-01-2015, 06:59 AM
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If you decide to go to the trouble of rebuilding them (I did not rebuild mine and have put about 30,000 miles on them after it sat for 12 years), then pull the front hubs while you are at it to inspect/repack wheel bearings and change the inner seal which is likely bad as well.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TZ_280SEL View Post
If you decide to go to the trouble of rebuilding them (I did not rebuild mine and have put about 30,000 miles on them after it sat for 12 years), then pull the front hubs while you are at it to inspect/repack wheel bearings and change the inner seal which is likely bad as well.
That's a good idea, I will inspect for that.

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Replace the brake lines. At this age they are rotten on the inside and will not allow full or proper brake action.

You are going to paint them. I know from your other posts, so remove the whole caliper, put it on a bench and do the whole job right. Get the proper tools, a vise to hold the parts and fresh pads. Measure the rotors for thickness. No use doing all the rebuild work and put them on worn rotors. The rotors are only good for 90k miles (150k km). Get the proper Mercedes rotors, and DO NOT have them turned. New rotors are less than the cost of turning them. Turning Mercedes rotors ruins them.
Rotors look good, not much worn. Luckily the people my uncle bought the car from didn't drive it as much and the pads have plenty material left as well but I will definately change the pads because the are old and I don't want to take any chances on those failing. And yes that was the way I wanted to paint my calipers
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