W114 gearbox problem - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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W114 gearbox / transmission problem

Hi

This is a follow on from a previous thread I had on here. 2 months later and I've finally gotten a chance to have a look at this again (I don't live where I keep the car so it's difficult to get time!).

Just to give a quick summary of the problem:

- Initially had a problem starting the car after a time spent idle - resolved by replacing the plugs
- When I moved the car, I was able to reverse out of the shed no problem but when I put it in 4 / 3 / 2, it won't move or even rev. Foot flat on the accelerator and nothing. When I rev it in neutral, it revs ok and if I put it quickly from neutral into drive, it moves forward a little and then dies.
- Presumable a gearbox problem then?

So I got under the car and the linkages are moving fine and are in reasonable condition. When the gearstick moves, it all moves smoothly and seems to be okay externally.

On the basis of that, does it sound like there's something amiss internal to the gearbox? Is it possible to open up the gearbox from below or is this something best left to a pro?

Thanks in advance

Last edited by MacDanger; 04-06-2015 at 02:01 PM. Reason: Updating title
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 09:14 AM
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???? No revs in gear, but revs ok in park? That gearbox has no electrical connection to the pedal and it has no computer control. I'm wondering about linkage issues but you checked them, right?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Grubeguy View Post
???? No revs in gear, but revs ok in park? That gearbox has no electrical connection to the pedal and it has no computer control. I'm wondering about linkage issues but you checked them, right?
Revs in Reverse and in Park but not in Drive.

Just so I'm clear what is meant by "linkages" - underneath the gearstick is connected to a rod which connects to a triangular piece of metal which connects to another rod which connects to what I'm assuming is the gearbox. All that is ok i.e. moving backwards and forward with the gearstick. That's the linkages, right?

Thanks
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 11:17 AM
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Start engine. Let it idle until car is warmed up(80C on temp gauge), then with gear selector still in "P" and engine idling, check the transmission fluid level using the transmission dip stick(located near the rear of the engine by the firewall). If fluid is not at full mark, add fluid thru the dipstick tube until it is. See if the car will move now. If the fluid is already at full, you can try changing the fluid and filter as a last resort before giving up on the transmission. Don
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks ollo, will try that
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I checked the transmission fluid after ~ 20 minutes of the car idling. On the dipstick, there are two lines etched approx 0.5" / 15mm apart at the bottom - are these min / max or hot / cold levels? The fluid level is between the two, approx 40% of the way up.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 08:12 AM
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on the obscure list of things to check, is you parking brake stuck on?

beside tranny, could be torque converter?

with rear of car safely raised, turn rear wheels and listen to transmission in neutral. I dont know if you could check engine off and in gear, or engine on in gear same thing.

Changing fluid may be worth trying.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 08:17 AM
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Those are the Max/Min marks. Since your engine was idling and the car wasn't driven, it is likely the transmission fluid had still not reached its 80* C operating temperature. I don't think you are low on fluid, so don't add any.

After re-reading your posts, it sounds more like there is a problem with your throttle linkage or some thing is interfering with it when in the D,1,2 position. You need to have someone familiar with the W114 take a look at your car. It wouldn't hurt to change transmission fluid and filter but I doubt it will change anything. This is a new one on me. Don
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 08:21 AM
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The marks would be farther apart if they were for Hot/Cold, about 1 1/8" difference between Cold and Hot. Don
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 10:11 AM
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as long as you see anything on the stick , you are ok . if you can push car by hand , nothing is stuck there . what happen in reverse ???? .i wonder when you put in drive , the trans go in forward and reverse at same time .
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