I've been updating my other threads on The Car Lounge and StanceWorks but haven't really posted anything here. So I am.
Major news is that I finally found a Pertronix Ignitor kit that fit my distributor and it was incredibly worth it. I emailed my results to the editor of mbzponton.org and he added me to the Pertronix conversion article. #2843 fits Bosch VJUR 4 BR 27 T (or Bosch 0-231-115-027 same part different number) with dust shield (T designation), only modifications required was using a punch and hammer to move a tiny metal clip on the dust shield to the right about 1/8" of an inch to allow the points piece thing to clear, and shave about 1/4" off the base of the distributor rotor.
I also sourced a full set of Mustang Foxbody springs, as I have heard a rumor that the springs will mount right up to W114 chassis and lower the car 5" while maintaining a solid ride/handling. I'm having trouble determining what I need to dismantle on the front suspension to remove the springs in one piece. I measured the diameter of both springs (using seamstress tape around one coil) and found out that stock W110 spring diameter is 17.5" and the Foxbody was 17" around, with errors no doubt. Only way to find out if the height drop is worth the work and to verify the ride quality claims is to do it, and I'm hoping to do it without dropping the whole front subframe assembly and risking breaking an unobtanium part!
I have the front right hub pulled off and in the middle of replacing rotors, rebuilding calipers, and replacing the wheel bearings as of right now. Aerokroil is saving my life so much in freeing up these seized bolts (especially the ones holding the rotor to the hub--- had to bolt the wheel back on, have my girlfriend help hold the tire so I could rip on it hard enough to break the rust seal!)
I started the car for the first time since September, after changing the oil at long last and moving up from 10W-30 (a poor choice) to 20W-50, the oil was super gassy smelling and very runny. I've read that long periods of cranking the motor without firing can deposit gas into the oil, and that was definitely going on while we were trying to get the thing running earlier this year. Not to mention I'm hoping the lighter weight oil was to blame for oil leaking out of the valve cover. It reminded me that I need to take a little time to get the choke/fast idle set right, as of now it's set too loose and not engaging the choke at all-- that's what I get for opting for an electric choke and not a manual one!
I also came across a guy selling a bagged W110 in VA. I got in contact with him to ask about his setup and found out he has a set of 13" chrome beauty rings- they're already in a box and on the way to my doorstep! I'll finally have a full set of rings! (2 of the 4 are in meh condition but 1 is exceptional comparitively and all I need is one!)
Some pictures and video:
(I'm told that I can remove the horizontal bolt as seen at the top of the spindle assembly, in front of the shock, to gain access to the spring. Can anyone verify this?)
The (probably original) old rotor next to the new one
The best of the 4 beauty trim rings coming my way
Here's the latest start video:
and one I grabbed after doing EI (car warm):
I'm still on the hunt for a 190 gas trunk lid badge, shoot me a PM if you have one to sell! I have a 200D badge to trade!