1963 220 Sb - Careful modernization - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 01:51 AM
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Very nicely done retrofits!
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-17-2014, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: Ferguson TED-20 1956, Mercedes-Benz 220 S 1963, Valmet 502 1973, Mercedes-Benz S 500c 1996
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Cruise Control - Background and beginning

Obviously I wanted cruise control, seeing as I often go on longer trips. What I did not expect from the AC install was a sudden tendency to wander up to about 150 kmh, well within the loosing-your-licence-range here in sweden.
In the old days I always (since this is a summer car) drive with the window down, and when my eardrums really start to hurt is somewhere around 120 kmh (costly but no loss of licence)

Hence, I needed cruise control.

First I opted to get a universal kit, maybe make a custom knob and then be done with it, but I couldnt get any response to some very rudimentary questions, neither from the supplier or the manufactorer, so that did not make me feel confident...

Then more or less by accident I stumbled upon a wiring diagram for a W124 cruise control, and I liked the fact that the actuator is engaged by a clutch, which I liked for safety reasons.
Of course there is always a possibility of jammed linkage, but that risk is present even without cruise control!

Doing som research I found the actuator had been sitting in Benzes from W123 up to W140, so the supply should at least be good. It was also dirt simple functionwise, which I also liked.

As for the amplifier/ECU there were two versions, an early one, and a later one, being identifiable by a coding plug (to make it fit different models).

The switch was of course only a switch. No worries there.

So in theory this sytem should bolt on just fine, and after some tuning work fine.

I was however lacking a clutch pedal rest switch (for disconnect of the system when I press the clutch) and a electronic speed signal.

The clutch switch was found in a brake light switch for my W140 S500 (I aquired it for faultfinding purposes). Just some custom bracket to manufacture and then I'm done!

Speed signal was another matter however. There were some quick fix kits that involved placing a bunch of magnets on the prop shaft, which I did not like one bit, since it can be in a pretty exposed place.

I was suggested to just place a magnetic pickup at the ring wheel in the rear diff cover. He did however see the difficulty when I showed him the swing axle. Say what you like, but it just is not a regular Dana rear axle in that (or any other sense)

Then I found a clever little sensor that you just bolt on to either the gearbox or speedometer before you attach the speedometer cable.
I opted for a VDO one and the project was underway!
It was however the wrong thread and so on, but that is a relatively minor issue...

This set things rolling, and in about an hour I bought a complete set (minus all my own custom bits) from various junkyards.

Attached is a picture of the speedometer cable sensor
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 03:45 AM Thread Starter
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Tempomat - Trial and error

Since I got the important bits from junkyards, there was of course always the issue of them not being fully functional, so I considred this as being a gamble I was willing to make.

I opted for the later model amplifier/ECU with the coding resistor as I more less hoped it would be customizable in some manner, thus enabeling me to make fit my car. Of course I based this on absolutely nothing except the fact that the same ECU was installed in W140 300SD and W124's. W140 only have a speed signal derived from its ABS tone rings, (which are in the order of 40-50 pulses per wheel revolution), and the W124, which in some models uses a hall sensor mounted in the speedometer cluster (getting its signal from the still mechanical speedometer cable). I assumed this frequency to be considerably less.

In order to be able to find this out I needed a test rig. I hooked everything up to a signal generator in order to try things out.

A note on the speedometer sensor is that at least in standalone mode it needs a pullup resistor in order to be able to provide a signal. This MAY be present inside the amplifier. I just left it on there to make life easier for me when I did the installation.

I found out that one of the resistors DO infact control minimum engagement speed! the other ones obviously control things as well, but so far I have not been able to figure out what.
I was able to source some extra coding plugs from
https://sites.google.com/site/mbcrui...rolrepair/home
(he seems to be known as JamesDean on this forum, and provided valuable input even though this isn't the most ordinary project), So I will eventually produce a permanent one.

Attached is first a picture of the amplifier with test wiring. Also visible is the modified coding plug with potentiometers (for experimenting purposes)

Secont is an overall picture of the full test setup. just to be fully sure the speedometer sensor worked with the system (signal levels can be a problem some times) I hooked it up to a power drill. Everything worked fine!

There is also a picture of the speedometer sensor, which I had to machine slightly. originally it was for M18x1.5 threads, but on fintails they obviously use M16x1.0
I machined some plastic and mad botha an insert thread for the female side, and a new one for the male side. Do NOT attemt to thread in the black plastic, it really doesnt respont well to it...
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Tempomat - Integration

Getting the Actuator to fit under the hood was very simple, I even got to reuse some old mounts (I belive they might have been for charging relay initially, but that was modernized last year)

I wanted to fit the actuator onto the engine to eliminate the movement the engine does relative to the bodywork, as this was not possible (the perfect spot had just been occupied by the AC compressor) without an excessive amount of linkage I selected the firewall, but got as long link as possible in an effort to minimize the problems. All in all not so bad or problematic.

Getting the control stalk in place was an entirely different matter. during some previous measurements I concluded there should be enough clearance inside of the steering column. To make a long story short; I was right, with about 1 mm to spare, and as a bonus I was able to reuse the original rubber grommet (I think that is what its called).
Anyone attempting to replicate this mod, do take ample time for this operation

As you can see I selected a lever with german lettering, and this is deliberate; all other text (on the cluster) is in german, and I did not want one with symbols on, as all the symbols that are sort of standardized these days (check engine-, park brake-, headlights- and oil pressure-symbols) really wasn't present anywhere else in this car, so they would have been that litte (for me only most likely) eyesore that can ruin something like this.

I bought pins and contact housings from MB directly, and manufactored my own wiring harness. Nothing to complicated if you're reasonably familiar with a soldering iron, but it takes some time.

Attached is pictures of the actuator in place, the control stalk in place and a picture of the linkage towards the carbs
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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Tempomat - Finishing up

I was now ready for my first test ride, and I found out that 40-50 kmh turned out to be 75 Hz. On the negative side I had totally forgot what I set that particular potentiometer to, so I had to try things out a few times before I got lucky (a bit nervous though, as I until the first engagement I was not sure if the wiring etc was in any way correct)

I had a test jack in the glove box in order to be able to measure the hz (and speed) accurately, to see if I had fluctuations or so (the original speedometer, as we all know are not that easy to read that exactly)

I had my trim pots neatly placed next to the frequency display, but as the cruise control behaved so nicely on the first try, I decided not to fiddle around with it anymore

So this was basically it, with exception to manufacture a new coding resistor.


Even though the AC was the thing I missed the most, this project was by far the most rewarding to pull of, especially in light of how few unexpected problems occured

Attaching a picture of the test setup (sorry about the quality) and the control stalk with the steering wheel in place
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 09:16 PM
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I like the cruise control.

When researching A/C options you didn't mention the idea of trunk-mounted AC. My 63 220S has trunk mounted AC which I intend to resurrect with modern compressor and the like... Hopefully...

Scott

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 09:30 PM
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The boot mounted a/c works very well with a ND compressor from a 126 300 ,as was originally fitted to Euro models.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-18-2014, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoot View Post
I like the cruise control.

When researching A/C options you didn't mention the idea of trunk-mounted AC. My 63 220S has trunk mounted AC which I intend to resurrect with modern compressor and the like... Hopefully...

Scott
To be completely honest I forgot to mention the trunk mounted option!
I simply put it a aside initially since it seemed like a big bother getting the coolant hoses all the way back. But I suppose it would have been the way I would have gone had I not found a suitable underdash unit.

Do let us now how the reviving of your unit goes!
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 03:16 AM Thread Starter
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Let there be light!

So apart from the car working absolutely perfect, i've always been less than happy about the headlights. In my particular version of the euro headlights a bilux bulb is used.

I've tried modifying H4 bulbs with limited success via using an adapter to make them fit (sort of) in the p45t socket.

So I set my sights on using the so called export headlight asseblies (or america headlights as they are reffered to over here), then putting in some really good generic 5.75" reflectors.

What fits best is of course a matter of taste, but since I try to make the rest of the car modern, I figured that should apply to the headlights as well.

Anyway, here is the assemblies I found for a good price (with some wear and tear to match the rest of the car)
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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After much trouble in deciding exactly what kind of headlights to use (xenon being discarded due to european legal reasons ) the verdict fell on LED lights (moderinsh apperance, low power consumption, and long lifetime) rather than halogens.

I ended up on the conclusion that JW Speaker 8630 was probably the best way to go (even a cool DRL/position light function was included). Also I think that it will give the car a really cool look when lighted

(these ar the ones I went for)
Press Release: The Evolution Headlight Family has Grown!


However, there is no conceivable way that these sealed beam 'replacements' will fit in the mounting bracket without MAJOR modifications.


If any reader should be wanting to attempt this, please know that it will require so much work to rebuild the original brackets that you may be better of starting from scratch!


Also, since I went LED for the headlight I figured the turn signal should be LED as well. I am very much opposed to using LED replacement bulbs for the simple reason that it just does not turn out any good outputwise.

Therefore I dissected the position lights (which at least on the assemblies i recived were blind anyway), and then built myself a little circuitboard with a bunch of amber LED's and mounted it behind some frosted plastic.

So far I think it has turned out pretty well!



This is just from one of the many trials with the first headlight, still have one more to build!
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