Ok, you have a D-jetronic system. Runs great if it runs good, if not itīs just the start of the nightmare.
The sensors and ECU signals are measured in Ohms, you need to check resistance in each and every sensor and injector.
I have somewhere a D-jet checking list, PM me and I will email that one to you, basically you have to measure resistance at:
- Vacuum Sensor, big sensor right side on the chassis, new ones go for 1.300$ if you find them. If your CO is above 7% that one is broken.
- Throttle sensor, turn on contact and push acelerator pedal down, you should hear 20 clicks on the sensor.
- Air temperature sensor, on the air filter housing, not that important.
- Water temperature sensor, not that important too but enriches mixture a little
- Cold start valve sensor, if broken will leave start injector open
- Injectors, check ground conections.
Also, Idle valve front of the engine, above, it works with refrigerant temperature. At normal operating temperature should be closed. If open then your idle will move from 750rpm to 1.250 rpm up and down. ECU open and closes injectors continously.
Pressure on the injectors should be 34psi.
trigger points on the distributor, are underneath the ignition points. 2 screws on the side of the distributor. This opens and closes the injectors, so most probably that one is not working and thatīs why you donīt get your injectors working on one side.
Hope this info helps
Thank Much for reply
Very Interesting > Perhaps you did not read all my post and reply's but I will try to load some photos here again of the Burnt
up looking ECU Previously Posted here . I am trying to digest your reply so hope I get it right . I Just looked and Yes farther below the Distributor Plate
( held in by Screws ) I do see some 2 screws in the lower body area of the Distributor . This must be what your talking about related to Trigger points for the Injectors :
Can you please enplane that in more detail ?
As Posted I have Power to only the center Injectors ( all the Cylinders in the middle of the motor ) Number 2 and 3 ( Pass side ) and 6 and 7
( drivers side )
But your reply post to me states and I Quote
"so most probably that one is not working and thatīs why you donīt get your injectors working on one side."
Now can you Elaborate on that interesting point please Thanks Much :
Because I do get Power to the Injectors on Both Sides but only in the
" middle Cylinders " ( That's what the Engine is running on the middle Cylinders )
So Question's ?
(1) Is it possible that this is the Problem something related to these trigger Points inside the Distributor ?
(2) What exactly is in their some magnetic contacts or ? sending power or triggering information to the ECU that then sends power to the Injectors ?
(3) Not sure where the " Vacuum Sensor " is By Right side of the Engine do you mean Drivers side or Pass side Please ?
I think I see the " Throttle sensor,( turn on contact ) " it has a cable that go;s to the throttle Linkage seems to be Vacuum Controlled .
The Car barely Run's at this point so Its hard to test all of those things yet
I was told on this Forum post that the ECU controls the Injectors to Fire
( or send fuel ) to the Cylinders and since I read no Power with motor running to the Injectors on all the end Cylinders ( 1 / 4 Pass side 5/ 8 Driver side ) I pulled the ECU out and discovered is looks all burnt up and smells bad I will post the Photos again here below , please view them.
Note I am a Long Time Mechanic But not a Mercedes Expert so asking for this help thanks much
(4) Question although it seems the ECU has Issues is it possible that these
distributor trigger points could be the cause of the " end Cylinders "not getting power to open the injectors for fuel ?????
I am now thinking perhaps the ECU has Issues but also perhaps these Trigger points I now know of may be the cause of this ??
What do you think ? how do they work and how can I test them ?
I am new to this forum and need to learn how to PM anyone also
Photos show The Burned up look of the ECU case / Also the Mother Board with burn trail one spot . It Smell's very burnt up strong and looks very bad .
Note : to get the Car Running ( on 4 Cyls' ) I finally found from a old oil leak that oil and dirt was the cause of no spark and found after cleaning the area of the Coil / the Wiring to distributor / Resistors / ignition control module / to be the Cause of no spark from the coil . then it started up . Motor is Quite / no smoke / good Compression 155 / 165 all tested after running it 45 min's.
I Did " not " Clean the Distributor Base area but only the Top area perhaps this would be wise . I do see a plug in type connector to the lower part of the distributor running to another plug in up higher then wiring running back along the top of the motor .
This is very good information your giving me to work with thanks much.
I would like the Specks but not sure yet how to PM You here i will look for it .
Anyone got one of these ECU UNITS Bosch 0 280 002 014 a working one