Date registered: Mar 2013
Vehicle: 1967 Fintail 230S
Location: Miami, FL
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Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Ok, this is what I remember from the swap so far:
My car is a 1967 230 (w110) with the I6 motor, which used to rev too much at highway speeds with a 4.5:1 diff ratio, so I purchased an entire axle from a 1972 350 (w108) with the 4.5L V8 motor, with a diff ratio of 3.23:1. Get the entire axle with the hand brake cables intact (they are $100 a pop at the MBCC) and the trailing arms.
The w108 rear axle has disc brakes, so you will need to use 14" rims or larger. I bought rebuilt ATE calipers from "AZ" (about $50 each), pads that fit a Volvo 240 from "NAP", hoses from "PP", and rubber bushings and mounts from mbcc. Change all the rubber bushings etc on the W108 axle prior to putting it in the car...it's a lot easier. I didn't change the ones at the back of the trailing arms.....looked too complicated.
Jack up the rear of the car as high as possible, but DO NOT jack up under the diff. That will ruin the mount that's installed in the trunk ($250 from MBCC). I placed jack stands in the area near the jacking points, inboard of the sill, with a piece of wood on top to spread the load. I jacked up the right rear wheel to compress the horizontal spring (a little), the used long metal hose clamps and a come-along to keep it compressed. I don't remember the next sequence of events, but I disconnected everything and ultimately rolled the axle with wheels, backwards from under the car. I had to cut the exhaust pipe (which ran under the axle) at the back of the front muffler.
The W108 axle has a horizontal mounted "shock absorber". I "hose clamped" a piece of 2 inch X 2 inch X maybe 3 inches long "U" iron over the chrome retractable arm to prevent this shock from retracting. That way, with wheels on, I was able to push this axle around. From the W110 axle, save the horizontal spring and the rhinoceros arm, just in case.
Two big floor jacks (and 2 pairs of hands) will make re-installing much easier. I only had one big and one small. Keep the U iron on the horizontal shock until after installation. Roll the W108 axle under the car with the trailing arms attached. Connect the trailing arms to the car, but be certain the rhinoceros horn is in its hole prior to raising the axle. I had a new bushing for the top of the rhinerceros horn, but I used the old one until I finished everything so as not to damage the new one. Connect the shock absorbers.
It's a lot easier to replace the rhinoceros arm to bushing when the horizontal spring is no in place. This spring puts pressure on both halves of the axle, and was the last thing I put back into place.
I am now starting work on the brakes.