*UPDATE* 66 W110 200D/190 swap revival - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Sep 2013
Vehicle: Mk4 VW Jetta 2.slow, W110 Heckflosse 1.9L swapped
Location: Salem, Oregon
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(Thread Starter)
*UPDATE* 66 W110 200D/190 swap revival

Been a few months since I've posted an update here.

The short and sweet of it is that I've gotten the car fairly roadworthy and I've taken her out for a day or two in the last month or two. I've replaced the front left rotor/pads, threw in new wheel bearings, and rebuilt the calipers (well, rebuilt- more like greased slides, new seals, unseizing a piston, and some rust cleaning). Got the timing pretty well sorted out as well, main issue being the distributor at correct angle puts the vacuum advance housing directly into the oversized and nonworking temp sender plug.

I have no idea how to get into the cluster to see if I can replace the sender and the wire to get the cluster temperature working, so I picked up an aftermarket gauge for a dollar that needs a proper sender to hookup.

I figure I still have a vacuum leak going on, I tried spraying a little carb cleaner at my carb adapter plate setup and it upped my idle. This either means the gaskets are leaking or somehow the fumes travelled straight up into the intake and upped the idle that way. I'm not 100% sure and I'm searching into a solution to see if I can somehow externally use a high temp sealant to determine if it's indeed leaking there or elsewhere.

I have a number of wore out hoses in the bay that are in desperate need of replacement, especially the oil pressure hose leading to the cluster. I figure I'm gonna just have to go down to an autoparts store with a huge variety of rubber hoses and just start pulling stuff apart to see what size is what.

ALSO: I'm still searching for a single 13" beauty ring (I pulled the other 3 off for now so they all match) as well as a 190 trunk lid badge! I'll gladly trade my 200D badge for a 190 badge!

Here's some recent pics.














History:
1987 W124 300D 6cyl Turbo (2005-2008), 2005 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L (2008-present), 1966 W110 200D, M121/Weber 32/36 DGEV swap (2014)

You've heard that voice for so long, you believe it to be you. You believe it to be your best friend.
Where's the best place an opponent should hide? In the very last place you would ever look.
The greatest con, that he ever pulled, was making you believe that 'he is you.'

Last edited by amotion578; 07-31-2014 at 11:18 AM.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 01:17 PM
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Date registered: Jun 2010
Vehicle: 1966 MB 200; Porsche 914 (6); Porsche 914 (Chev 350); 36 ford
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I don't know if you already know, but the temp sensor is a capillary, and not an electrical sensor. So, be careful around it.

There is a thread somewhere here, that someone did, about how to repair it.

Otherwise, I believe it's a $500 new sensor/gauge.

-- brett
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 07-31-2014, 08:03 PM
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Date registered: Oct 2002
Vehicle: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amotion578 View Post
I have no idea how to get into the cluster to see if I can replace the sender and the wire to get the cluster temperature working, so I picked up an aftermarket gauge for a dollar that needs a proper sender to hookup.
OK, here's pictures to help you out. Two pictures of the back of the cluster.

1. See the BIG wing nut in the middle? You need to reach your hand up behind the cluster and unscrew that. That is one of the things that is holding the cluster in.

2. Another thing holding the cluster in is that big cable with the big plug on the end. You need to unplug that.

3. Another thing holding the cluster in is the speedo cable. You need to unscrew that.

4. Another thing holding the cluster in is a rigid oil pressure line. You need to disconnect that probably under the hood where it comes through the firewall. Flare nut wrenches help. There is a rigid tube that connects at the firewall and the other end connects to the cluster where I have 4.

5. Finally there is the temp sender capillary tube. That screws into the engine block and threads to the back of the cluster. It is only removable from the engine block so you need to disconnect it there.

You don't disconnect them necessarily in this order. For instance, you may have to pull the cluster part way out to get to 4 and 3.

What you MUST do carefully is the threading of the capillary tubing through the firewall and to the place where it screws in on the engine. There are probably a couple of clamps holding it in place along the way.

You can swap a good temp gauge with your bad one. For that matter you can repaint all of your needles if you want. I think a decent used temp sender will run you $100+ as this is usually the part of the cluster that doesn't work, usually because someone messes up the capillary tube close to the engine block itself.

Good luck!
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Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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