220 SEB Coupe 1964 W111 engine problem - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Apr 2012
Vehicle: Land Rover with retrofitted MB 300 D engine; 617.910, 220 SEB Coupe 1964
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Thanks, I will try to find the fuel pump repacement thread.

Also I think I will go with an aftermarket fuel pump. Building a shield and brackets is no big deal for me.

I have a couple of separate questions as well though;

A) The crankhouse ventilation on my car is simply a tube from the valve cover to open air at the lower part of the left hand side of the engine. Is this correct?

B) The electrical system is powered by a dynamo. Obviously alternators are more effective. Any special issues with replacing the dynamo with an alternator? I assume just bypassing the voltage regulator to the battery. (I realize purists may shudder at this but driving cars must be practical as well.... :-))
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 10:38 PM
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Date registered: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 300sel W109, 280S 70 , 220s 62. 230 66. Lancia Flavia 63.Pininfarina
Location: Totteridge London.
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These are medium pressure pumps 16-18 psi.for w111 se
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-20-2014, 11:24 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Apr 2012
Vehicle: Land Rover with retrofitted MB 300 D engine; 617.910, 220 SEB Coupe 1964
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Thanks Adler,

I found the thread on fuel pump replacement.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vint...fuel-pump.html

It seems that the author there was successful using a Facet pump. That thread mentions 6 psi and 3,3 liters per minute (without being certain). Can I confidently go with the 16-18 psi mentioned above? Anyone able to confirm the flow rate of the pump?
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 12:52 AM
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Date registered: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 300sel W109, 280S 70 , 220s 62. 230 66. Lancia Flavia 63.Pininfarina
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Its. 6 psi and 3.3 litres per minute is the correct specs for a 220se and the230sl Models.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 05:29 AM
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Vehicle: 1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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The crankcase vent line should be routed to a hose coupling on the throttle body. There is a specific rubber coupling for this. I'll take a pic of it on my car and post it and the number.

The fuel pumps are rebuild-able. Please straighten out the bottom of the shield protecting the pump. Get new fuel pump buffers/mounts as needed. Renew the fuel hoses including the short coupling hoses by the center driveshaft bearing. Grease the sliding joint on the rear driveshaft and grease the front driveshaft coupling after the trans.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 07:39 AM
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Here is a picture. No number yet.
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Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 11:20 AM
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Sometimes an inefficient pump can be resusitated by switching the positive and negative leads and running the pump in reverse using diesel fuel as a cleaning medium. Always worth a try before springing for the big $$.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 06:49 PM
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there is a screen in the inlet pipe of pump , it does plug up .easy to check .
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Apr 2012
Vehicle: Land Rover with retrofitted MB 300 D engine; 617.910, 220 SEB Coupe 1964
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(Thread Starter)
Thanks all following this and helping. All noted on rebuilding the pump, I am sourcing parts just now.

Looking closely at the impeller (see attached pics) I note that one side of the teeth are slightly rounded, -I assume these should be facing the inside of the pump, correct? And the sharper edges towards the bottom plate...

Then we have the key arrangement. The shaft has longitudinal groove which is the obvious "locking" groove for the key, but on the opposite side is a recess as well. What is the function of that? See pics attached.

Thanks for the photo on the crank-case vent, this is next to be checked up on.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-22-2014, 09:38 AM
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Date registered: Jan 2007
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To your question about the dynamo, yes you can and probably should switch to an alternator, very common upgrade on these cars and if you're driving more than showing it really makes sense... plus, you can switch back at any time if needed.

-Marrs

The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs)official website
The Coupe Group on Facebook


"Too many people are working at jobs they hate, to buy things they don't particularly want, to impress people they don't even care about." --Dr. Deepak Chopra
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