Regarding the clutch issue: replacing both slave and master cylinders seemed to do the trick. All gears much easier now and reverse while the engine is running doesn't grind. However, the clutch pedal is VERY heavy and there's not a lot of freeplay in the clutch, nor can I put my foot to the floor with it. I've shortened the adjustment lever on the clutch a few times now by 5-8 threads each time, and still does the same thing. There is an adjustment on the master cylinder/clutch pedal area correct? Also, the pedal itself is not in line with the brake pedal (it's a good half inch closer to the firewall), is this designed to be like this or is something off?
Regarding the carburetor issue: With a second DIY aluminum adapter plate, the Weber 32/36 has been adapted on an M121 for the first time (as far as I've seen on the interwebs). Ran very well and no surprise if I've managed to pick up a few ponies with the much less restrictive intake setup. With the 1-3/4" tall intake it clears the hood no issue as well! We modified the Solex throttle lever and had to make our own throttle linkage leading up to the carb to get the throttle to work 100% (and it does!)
Not everything was hooked up yet for this picture (vacuum advance, crankcase breather, etc)
The plate is about a quarter inch thick, the counter sunk screws go into where the studs were mounted for the intake manifold, a gasket and gasket sealer fits over it flush and lets the studs stick through for the 2 to 1 barrel adapter plate above it. The bore is dremeled out to make a smoother flowing transition between the adapters. I filed down the gaskets used between both to help with the smoothness as well (not pictured).
Regarding the misfire: It was still misfiring after the Weber was put on. I called the shop that was on the last oil change sticker on the windshield and found out they did the motor swap back in 2005. That was the last time the points were replaced as far as the guy at the shop was aware- the PO brought it there for just about everything and anything between 2005-2009 when it last came in for the oil change. The guy remembered the car and was excited to hear that someone was trying to keep it going!
I told him about the misfire, and his suggestion was to replace the points and the condenser, especially considering I already had new points in the box and a condenser was here overnight through NAPA auto parts. So I replaced both Friday. Before starting it, we checked the timing mark on in reference to a post on mbzponton.org for setting the timing (8° +/- 1° BTDC, it was at 9° BTDC if I checked it right), and I gapped the breaker points based on their chart (between .4 and .5mm). I had a .457 feeler gauge I used, with the breaker arm at the top of the cam follower lobe. I wasn't 100% sure if that was correct so I asked around to people who knew more about distributors than I and the general answer was to set it like that.
At first, I set the gap between the flat part of the cam follower and the breaker arm plastic/rubber piece thing.
And then when I set the gap at the breaker points, with the cam follower at the top of the lobe, I moved the cam follower (using the back wheel in 4th gear) to the flat part and there was an intangible gap between the flat section and breaker arm plastic piece. One person I asked suggested that the breaker arm plastic piece should always be in contact with the cam follower. I just don't see how that's possible unless I need to force the plastic piece thing at an angle with the lobe there while I set the point...f
The engine now gets very random and intermittent spark. Not enough to get it started, it cranks for awhile, you let it sit, and on occasion it will cough a few times and then go back to cranking.
Theories we came up with:
- Plugs are wet from the week that we were messing about with the carb throttle lever action, it definitely smelled like gas for a few days. I didn't have time to stick around and try pulling a plug to see if it was wet.
- When I went to start the car after doing points, I tried setting the choke on the Weber. With the electric choke I was told to turn the ignition on and pump the throttle to WOT once. I don't know if this could have affected how it attempted to start on a potential flooded carb.
- The points aren't gapped right (what I think is likely).
- I put too much grease on the cam follower.