Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs - Page 12 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #111 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 07:59 AM
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I think you answered your own question. There is no way to know if 2 are set the same.
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post #112 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs

Ordered one but considering buying another. I need to determine what size plumbing boot is required.

Edit: ordered a second.

Hopefully Home Depot or lowes has plumbing boots that will work, but I need to go to the plumbing supply house anyway.

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Last edited by Fonzi; 03-17-2015 at 10:04 AM.
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post #113 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 10:18 AM
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I remember reading that a modified Cool-Whip plastic tub works on these Zeniths, as well.

You don't need two of those vacuum meters. The one I have has a graduated clear tube with a rising ball. You merely sync the carbs so the ball reads the same over each carb.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles
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post #114 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-17-2015, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs

Quote:
Originally Posted by carpenterman View Post
I remember reading that a modified Cool-Whip plastic tub works on these Zeniths, as well.



You don't need two of those vacuum meters. The one I have has a graduated clear tube with a rising ball. You merely sync the carbs so the ball reads the same over each carb.

I figure I can sell of the second if the $17 was a total waste. I figure I need all the help I can get. If it helps to have two balls for an extra $17, I will take two balls please.

I will see if I can convince my wife to eat some cool whip if the plumbing boot isn't preferable.

Edit: tools ship today from Oregon. Maybe they will be here Friday.

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post #115 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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I went hunting around, and finally asked my wife if we had any cool whip containers. She said no, but she mentioned coffee cans. So I went searching for the red plastic ones we normally use before not finding them. But I used to buy this Chock Full O Nuts brand and had a two cans I used for but and bolt storage (starting just a few months ago). MAN!! Talk about a perfect fit!! I decided to add a layer of electrical tape to make the fit just a little more snug.

Now if I can just find the time to warm the car up and keep it running.

Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426805865.143176.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426805888.158118.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426805908.191267.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426806098.824738.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426806163.158216.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426806188.441397.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426806206.109074.jpg
Where to start? - 1971 250 w114 m130 zenith carbs-imageuploadedbyautoguide1426806220.874964.jpg


In addition, when talking to my friend Sam, he mentioned that the bell crank at the back of the carb might be getting stuck on a screw back there, and I am afraid that the rear carb is suffering from this because when I adjust the small idle linkage, the side bellcrank twists and the rear one stands still. Therefore the throttle plate for the rear carb is probably just staying in the same position.
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post #116 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Video explanations:

http://youtu.be/4pgslWZLKyQ

http://youtu.be/48noitpp_LY

http://youtu.be/PnfzwvAmUNE

http://youtu.be/kziQkGmEm2g

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post #117 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-20-2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonzi View Post
To clarify, just one tool is needed. Correct? What if I was to buy two of them? Would that be better?
I agree with Rumb on this one. Use only the one tool and move between the carbs, that way you know for sure that with one tool, it is the same between both carbs. Also Fonzi, check your fuel shut off solenoids that are attached to each carb. Make sure they are opening and allowing fuel to enter the carbs as soon as the ignition is switched on. You should hear each one click. I had an issue where my front one wasn't opening. I was still able to get the car to start and idle but very horribly after numerous adjustments. As soon as I discovered the problem and installed a new fuel shut off solenoid, I reset all my carb and linkage adjustments back to zero and started the the adjustments all over again and got the engine to run pretty damn good. Good luck and keep us posted.
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post #118 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-20-2015, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna Gaudi's 72 250 View Post
I agree with Rumb on this one. Use only the one tool and move between the carbs, that way you know for sure that with one tool, it is the same between both carbs.

No argument here. For $17 I thought it would be good to be able to monitor and see if the tool itself was reducing flow, etc. I have yet to use the tools. Snow just stopping here. Maybe tonight or tomorrow. Can't wait!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna Gaudi's 72 250 View Post
Also Fonzi, check your fuel shut off solenoids that are attached to each carb. Make sure they are opening and allowing fuel to enter the carbs as soon as the ignition is switched on. You should hear each one click. I had an issue where my front one wasn't opening. I was still able to get the car to start and idle but very horribly after numerous adjustments. As soon as I discovered the problem and installed a new fuel shut off solenoid, I reset all my carb and linkage adjustments back to zero and started the the adjustments all over again and got the engine to run pretty damn good. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sorry. Early 1970 (1969 build) here with no shutoff solenoids.

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post #119 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-22-2015, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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I got the car idling before the chokes got wide open. The rear vacuum was Way stronger. I briefly got the car running and the chokes balanced with vacuum, but the car stalled eventually, I think it was when the chokes got fully open.

The problem I continue to have with this car is even getting it to idle at all when warm and the chokes are open. It's like there's not enough vacuum to pull the fuel in through the idle circuits unless the chokes are closed a little. So I can't even get the car idling nicely when warm. I held the chokes closed for a little while getting the car to warm up, and the temp gauge was at 175 F. So it should be warm.

Why can't I get the car to idle when chokes are open? Too much air?

I can a just the throttle so it races instead of idles and of coarse the car runs then, but it's like I either get it to race or stall.

It was better when I first cleaned the carbs and hadn't done anything to adjust them. I know them better now, but it can't get them to run.

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post #120 of 138 (permalink) Old 03-22-2015, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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I am guessing that when the choke is closed, fuel is getting sucked in via the normal fuel circuit, but not enough fuel is coming in through the idle circuit. Why? I'm not sure. Could the engine be so worn out that it needs a much richer mixture to run? And if so, shouldn't I be able to open the idle mixture screw to increase the amount of fuel?

And for the mixture screw, more open, counterclockwise is richer, correct?

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