1972 280SE Help! - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Post 1972 280SE Help!

Hi
I just acquired a very nice condition 1972 280SE six cylinder fuel injection model. Got the car home did the usual stuff drained old gas, checked filter in the tanks whick was spotlessly clean, fuel filter a the fuel pump and changed the one under the hood. Car would start but has soon has you put it in gear it cuts out. Took valve cover off just to make sure eveverything there was in good shape, top of head and inside of the valve cover looks brand new and i saw no issues with the cam or valve train. removed the spark plugs and 5 of the six were nice and tan color, however the 4th plug was bluck and all gunked up and the cylinder seems the have some liquid in it. Am thinking head gasket time what does everybody else think. I got the car for free
and want to take my time and get it right, car is in great rust free shape.
If i remove the head should i take it to a machine shop and have them get it out and replace the guides and seal at a minimum, while head is off a was thing of putting new rings and lower bearing, was going to try and not remove the engine from the car ? Please chime in if you have any thoughts or comments
Thanks
Tim
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 08:25 AM
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1972 280SE Help!

Edit:
Fuel injected D-jetronic, Right? If so, read on. If not, ignore.
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When points gap get small on a d-jet, and rpms get low, they stall. The points "float" at higher rpm will allow the cars to run, but stall when rpms get low. If this is the case, the rider on the points has worn down and needs to be regapped. A business card, playing card, or about 0.014 or 0.016" is the gap you should have at the cam lobes I believe.

Spark plugs can foul because those old distributor cams can either wobble or just have a tiny bit of inconsistency that will manifest a no-spark in some cylinders before others.

That is the most common d-jet problem I believe there is.

Replace with pertronix and problem goes away. No more points to wear down. But, points are factory and cost only about $10. Pertronix requires a little wiring and a decision as to whether to include the switchgear in the circuit or not. I never did the pertronix upgrade on mine, but after the rider broke (not just wore down) on the points I installed, I am a firm believer in the pertronix upgrade.


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Last edited by Fonzi; 02-27-2014 at 08:35 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 01:05 PM
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I've got the Pertronix upgrade and it makes a world of difference. You can also get Flamethrowers (same hall effect pickup, different brand name)...

In 2005, I paid something like $120 for the whole kit. I think...
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 01:06 PM
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After you make sure your ignition is good, do a wet and a dry compression test. this will tell you if you have a valve or a ring issue.

was the car was running fine before you did the work??
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 04:19 PM
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Six cylinder should be mechanical injection... whole other set of challenges. Let me know.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014, 05:42 PM
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at the rear of injection pump there are 1 or 2 solenoid , unplug the wire at them to see if your problem goes away .
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