Best place for w114 and m130 info. - Page 8 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #71 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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Best place for w114 and m130 info.

[
Oops! Forgot the pics of the diagrams I'm referencing.


[edit]
Got a wiring diagram. Will print and figure out.
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post #72 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 10:47 AM
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Fonzi, you are doing a fantastic job on your car so far. When I was putting mine back together, the work became additcing to me. I am hoping that it will
grow on you too. (although, if it does become a parts car, I might need a few things) Keep the progress updates coming. I am enjoying your thread.

Here is a link to the hot spark setup. Make sure it will work with your distributor. http://www.hot-spark.com/

Last edited by Luna Gaudi's 72 250; 03-09-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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post #73 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 12:15 PM
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Something doesn't seem right with your setup there. The points are designed to send a pulse to the switchgear, which in turn pulses the coil. This has two benefits; the low voltage to the points contacts make them last much longer, and the switchgear can provide a pulse to the coil that will result in a better spark at the plug.

It looks like there is arc pitting on the points, indicating a high voltage. Since the system has already been 'molested' you might want to go with a retrofit system. Pertronix and Crane/S&S are the only ones I'm familiar with, and the Crane/S&S one which I installed completely replaces the switchgear. They both have the advantage of replacing the points, so you never have to worry about them again.

Scott

Remember: It's not just a car. It's an Adventure.
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post #74 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Best place for w114 and m130 info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RadioTek View Post
Something doesn't seem right with your setup there. The points are designed to send a pulse to the switchgear, which in turn pulses the coil. This has two benefits; the low voltage to the points contacts make them last much longer, and the switchgear can provide a pulse to the coil that will result in a better spark at the plug.



It looks like there is arc pitting on the points, indicating a high voltage. Since the system has already been 'molested' you might want to go with a retrofit system. Pertronix and Crane/S&S are the only ones I'm familiar with, and the Crane/S&S one which I installed completely replaces the switchgear. They both have the advantage of replacing the points, so you never have to worry about them again.



Scott

You betcha! I think the hot from the ignition was wired right to the coil positive, and the green wire from the distributor points was on the negative side of the coil. So the current through the points was way higher than it is supposed to be, frying my new set basically instantly. Sucks I didn't notice the zip-tied wires hidden behind an incorrect washer fluid bottle earlier. Oh well. Maybe the new points aren't complete toast.

It seems that Hot Spark has the right setup for these 6-cylinder cars (and pertronix does not). I'm not sure about crane. Luna has documented what must be done for the hot-spark, and it sounds like a breeze. That's really what I should be doing... But you know I'm stubborn.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna Gaudi's 72 250 View Post

Here is a link to the hot spark setup. Make sure it will work with your distributor. http://www.hot-spark.com/

I have already checked to see that my distributor cam is about 15.5mm on the flat sides, and I have right hand points. It is tempting to spend the money on the hot-spark ($70) and coil (another $70?), but I've got to be careful what I spend on this. I should probably be more careful with my time I guess.


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Originally Posted by Fonzi View Post
[edit]
Got a wiring diagram. Will print and figure out.

Son of a gun. There's no switchgear shown in the wiring diagram and the PDF I pictured above with the switchgear pictures is the best thing I could find. I think I'm going with the wiring in the first picture. That is my switchgear part number. So...

I saw somewhere that someone posted that the wiring should be the same as the v8 107s or something like that. So screw it.

I think I'm back to just trying to figure out where those five wires belong.

Oh... Also, does it matter which side of the resistors I use for each connection? I assume the resistance would be the same in both directions and that it won't matter.




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post #75 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Best place for w114 and m130 info.

Oh... One more thing... Since my coil + and - connections don't seem to both match any single diagram above, I think I've determined that my ground is in the right place. Something I read in one of the w114 manuals said that you can verify you have transistorized ignition in a 114 by verifying that the negative side of the coil is connected directly to ground. Ok... So my coil negative cable is right. The coil positive just seems to be hooked up to the big 0.4 ohm resistor instead of the little 0.6 ohm resistor. It is tempting to leave it and use the 0.4 as if it was the 0.6, but I think I should move it to the small 0.6 ohm resistor.


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post #76 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Got a few more minutes with the car and tried a few tests. With this setup, the resistors really killed the voltage at the coil. A max of about 4 volts, and a consistent 2.6 Volts. I even tried swapping the resistors.

I found that two of the "unknown" wires near the fuse box/coil get 12v:
- the small brown-ended one that was previously connected to the coil.
- the one I labeled "E" gets 12v with ignition switch on

I also discovered that the wire I labeled "D" gets 12 V only when the starter is cranking.

"D" and "E" were the two wires that were loosely zip tied and not touching each other (or anything).

"A", "B" and "C" were the wires with the coil rubber boots on them and the ground from the green coax wire from the points, all zip tired together because they had no voltage/current.

The other wires I found underneath the battery all clearly had a "home" that was easy to determine with the exception of the two wires that came forward from the wiring harness under the coil. I wasn't ever able to get any voltage on either of them, and suspected that maybe they were for the horn that doesn't work, and appears to be disconnected up at the horns too. However, not getting any voltage on these wires when pressing the horn button, and seeing that they look more ideal to connect to the switchgear connections, I'm left wondering whether one of these is supposed to connect with the green points wire and green/yellow wire of the switchgear. Bah.

Oh. Do I spend money on this shit box?

Can I run a hot-spark with the transistorized coil I have? Saving a few bucks? Will I ruin anything if I try the hot-spark without the hot spark coil?

I considered throwing in the towel, but... I guess I'm a glutton for punishment. Maybe I will wise up before buying the hot-spark.






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post #77 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 01:56 PM
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buyers guide from newest issue of the Star.
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post #78 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rumb View Post
buyers guide from newest issue of the Star.

Someone is supposedly coming from Philadelphia tomorrow to buy me out of this car, and he will use it as a parts car for one of his many. The conversation was all of 2 minutes, and he didn't seems to care too much for whether it ran or anything. It would certainly take me several weeks and lots of time to get my money back out of this car. So if a full price offer comes in, I think I'm done with w114 for a while.

http://delaware.craigslist.org/cto/4367654851.html

We will see what happens.






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post #79 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 02:31 PM
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Fonzi, that is probably a good descision to sell the car. Once you go down the rabbit hole, it's going to cost more money to get the car running so that it is safe and dependable then you will be able to sell the car for. If you do sell it, don't be a stranger and stop in and visit us w114'ers here.
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post #80 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luna Gaudi's 72 250 View Post
Fonzi, that is probably a good descision to sell the car. Once you go down the rabbit hole, it's going to cost more money to get the car running so that it is safe and dependable then you will be able to sell the car for. If you do sell it, don't be a stranger and stop in and visit us w114'ers here.

Well, I can keep:
- my six unused spark plugs
- the headlight I bought for it for $6
- the speaker grill I paid $25 for
- maybe some other stuff.

I'm going to pull down the ad since it took less than 24 hours to find a buyer. No sense in messing with other potential buyers. If this guy doesn't buy, then maybe I will revisit the decision of trying to make it run. I still wonder if it is just the coil is fried from the way it was used.

So hard to let go without declaring "success".

There is an illogical OCD part of me that would rather declare success at a massive loss of funds than even make a profit on parting or selling the car.

I just love the style of these cars.




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