try lowering your idle and set timing at 10-12 btdc at idle.
your accelerator pump may be worn, thus the stumble when flooring.
So I have continued to mess around with the car, and wrapped up some of the bad exhaust to quiet it down, but then the screech came back and it happens at high rpm. Plus I don't yet know how to turn down the idle. So when I advanced the timing to maybe 10-20 BTDC, the idle went way up and the screeching went nuts. I think it is the alternator belt which feels loose (and looks relatively new). So I toned the timing back a bit by decreasing the points gap to spec and getting about 3-5 btdc. Also, I don't think my vacuum retard is doing anything.
So I've got to work out some dizzy / vacuum issues.
And I've got to get under the car and tighten the alternator belt.
But here's the question:
I drove the car around the block today, and it would stall when I tried to accelerate. Since I think I've got the spark under control, and the car runs well at higher rpms. As long as I keep the car rolling, I've got no issues, but stopping, and trying to accelerate from a stop is dangerous. I've got to very gently press the accelerator until the car is moving fast enough to finally give it some real throttle and get moving.
I have been thinking about the post about the accelerator pump, assuming that was the issue and it's going to be a carb issue I need to address.
But today I was reading the Mercedes book with articles from the star magazine that my wife bought me a few years ago, and I see that there is an exhaust valve to warm the carbs. The valve in the exhaust stream gets stuck open and warps the carbs. The symptoms of a warped carb are a car that won't idle. Hmm...
If I can floor it without issue after the rpms are higher, but get stumbles or stalls when flooring it at low rpms, is the accelerator pump still a likely cause of my low speed acceleration problems?
Anyone have a "adjusting the idle for dummies" instructional?
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