Lifetime Premium Member
Date registered: Oct 2002
Vehicle: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb
Location: Los Angeles / Altadena
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Just to add a little more information - you are removing the clock from a W114, right? The instrument cluster is held in by a rubber friction band. You literally pull the cluster out wiggling it and/or push some from the back. You only have to get it out far enough to reach the two knurled nuts (hopefully) or nuts (not hopefully) on the back side of the clock. As I recall on a W114 the clock sort of plugs into the cluster so if you remove the nuts and push a little on the threaded shafts, the clock will just slide out of the front of the cluster. Then you put the cluster back in and ignore the hole until you have it calibrated the way you want it.
The picture I showed is an older clock which has 3 terminals plus a guide pin. The three terminals are ground, +12V U which is 12 volts to the Uhr = clock, and +12B B which is 12 volts to the bulb. Your clock will probably instead just have a single terminal on the back as the lighting comes via the cluster and the ground comes via the connection to the cluster. The single spade tip from the back gets 12 volts and you ground one of the screws. Also, if you only do this, the clock may not start going. It actually may require you to rotate it a little in your hand to get the springed weight moving. Then it should stay moving.
One other comment - the mechanism that causes it to wind again - one poster said it was ever several hours or so, my experience is that it is once every minute or so, maybe less. You will just hear a little click...
Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...