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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 12:54 PM
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Date registered: Jan 2009
Vehicle: anywhere from '52 300 to 1990 560SEL,and a '93300TE nothing newer, too much trouble....
Location: N L A County
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congrats

You got lucky finding those seats and in green to match the car.
they look to be original (1963 and older) though I have never seen green seats before (absolute rarity !).
If you're not sure about the year of your car PM me the VIN and I can tell you.

I love the 2CV 'truckette' it's on my bucket list including living in the south of France for a year or more...

Alex
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Jan 2014
Vehicle: 1963
Location: Spain
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did you know I was doing the van version ? Im keeping the original surface rust / patina as all the 2cv buffs have prohibited me from over spraying it !!...ive got a 46 ford in the workshop ready for channeling and possible roof chop aswell.....I am living the dream at the moment
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2014, 02:14 PM
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Date registered: Jan 2009
Vehicle: anywhere from '52 300 to 1990 560SEL,and a '93300TE nothing newer, too much trouble....
Location: N L A County
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I saw that

I was one step short of inviting myself to sleep in your 'barn'.

I love that photo and what you're doing....

I second on keeping the Hernandez frutasy verduras logo !
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Jan 2014
Vehicle: 1963
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wow I think thats the first time Ive had a cross over on the forums !! cheers mate!

ok Ive got another question for the experts please.
when starting the car (new battery) it seems to take forever to actually crank up. Im not sure about the state of the diesel heaters. and when it does start it dies unless I keep it on full throttle for about 3 minutes. as if it needs the engine to be warm for it to tick over.

Im thinking maybe one or 2 of the diesel heaters are knackered ?, and would this affect the power problem when the car is running. not sure how the diesel engine works apart from what Ive seen on you tube.

are there any links on here for my engine problems. and lastly what is my engine and which car is it from??

thanks guys and sorry for such naivety!
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 06:36 AM
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Date registered: Jan 2009
Vehicle: anywhere from '52 300 to 1990 560SEL,and a '93300TE nothing newer, too much trouble....
Location: N L A County
Posts: 361
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this I know

Quote:
Originally Posted by sigfurniture View Post
wow I think thats the first time Ive had a cross over on the forums !! cheers mate!

ok Ive got another question for the experts please.
When starting the car (new battery) it seems to take forever to actually crank up. Im not sure about the state of the diesel heaters. and when it does start it dies unless I keep it on full throttle for about 3 minutes. as if it needs the engine to be warm for it to tick over.

Im thinking maybe one or 2 of the diesel heaters are knackered ?, and would this affect the power problem when the car is running. not sure how the diesel engine works apart from what Ive seen on you tube.

are there any links on here for my engine problems. and lastly what is my engine and which car is it from??
thanks guys and sorry for such naivety!
As you hinted, you have 2 separate problems.
The starting should not take several turns of the engine unless your compression ( for different reasons) is low (should be 18bar, I believe).

What you call 'diesel heaters' are called glow plugs.
They only help in the starting process.
The original (loop) type need to glow for 30+ seconds even in warm climates, when the engine is cold.
You have another loop next to the ignition switch which indicates if your 'system' is working. That loop needs to be glowing orange for 15-30 seconds. (You know that the glow position is just before the starter contact position on the same pull switch ?)
The more worn the engine the more helpful it is to glow longer.They are wired in series, and if one is bad they all won't work right.
They need to have a certain resistance (?4 ohms?, you can search for details here above)
The newer glow plugs (commonly called pencil type) are wired differently and are connected to a glow plug relay. They glow a few seconds, depending on motor and weather temperature.

Now for your running issue.
No 1 most important fact is that diesel run on compression and generally air (too much or to little) is keeping it from running right.
I would start with bleeding the diesel system from ALL air !!.
There is a bleeder screw on the top of the fuel fine filter, where you need to bleed air by pumping diesel with the screw on diesel hand pump (on the driver's side top of the injection pump). Just like on brakes: watch for air returning (close screw) in between strokes of the pump.
The lever for the little hand pump is screwed into the I.P. and needs too be turned counterclockwise to open (sometimes they're really tight).
Pull and push it up and down, repeatedly (about 10-15 times). It needs to pull the fuel from the tank all the way up to the motor.
There should be some fuel in the line and you should feel some resistance.
After 15 times: If it sounds like it's just sucking air, then it probably is, and needs replacement.
I'm not sure if the newer ones from the w114 or w123 fit on that I.P. or not.

You may have a brittle fuel line (If original cloth wrapped fuel lines , then you can hardly tell) that leaks or just sucks in air (fuel out or air in).
Lastly:
Watch for the tiny injector return lines. If the motor starts running well they may leak too and air comes in through the return line....

good luck
I hope this helps for now

Alex
.
.
Why don't you throw in a you tube video of how you start it and how it runs, if none of the above helps any...

Last edited by 6punkt3; 01-21-2014 at 06:49 AM.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 06:58 AM
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Date registered: Jan 2009
Vehicle: anywhere from '52 300 to 1990 560SEL,and a '93300TE nothing newer, too much trouble....
Location: N L A County
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about your last question, which type of motor.

It looks like 200D.Easiest is for you to check motor number under the last glow plug on the side of the block, below cylinder head, is your engine tag and stamp below it (If the tag is missing )
It's an OM 615 or OM 621, maybe even an OM 616 ?
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 10:10 AM
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Date registered: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 1972 Mercedes Benz 250
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In case you missed it, here is a thread with a trick I used to remove the fuel tank strainer.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vint...-strainer.html

Can't wait to see the progress on your automobile.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-21-2014, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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and that gentlemen is why this forum is excellent !!
thanks so much for both of you for those excellent lessons for a novice.

punkt, I took your description to the car, and bled the fuel system (great set up that I would not have known about), I have transparent fuel lines and I had notices a large air bubble in there already. but gave it no importance. after bleeding the first time the power in the car went up considerably, it almost felt like driving a normal car and I got it into 4th gear at 60kmh (which is the record so far)..but on the second lap around the lanes around me I noticed a drop in power again and a sloiw pickup from the accelerator (almost if the car was clockwork and wound up!)
on bleeding again loads of little bubbles came out ..pretty much constantly...Im guessing I need a new pump as air is leaking in from somewhere!

gaudi! Ill use your trick tomorrow with the tank, excellent idea

cheers guys
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2014, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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found this..the replacement primer pump, Im assuming this will fix my air bubbles in the mix. anyone know where to get the upgraded part???.cheers sig
never mind found loads of american based upgrades..but wierdly the germans dont seem to stock the bosch stuff ??

http://

Last edited by sigfurniture; 01-25-2014 at 02:09 PM.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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ok so my old merc "viagra kit " arrived from pelican in the states, I ordered a new tank filter, a new hand pump and new glow plugs. also a new rocker cover gasket as the mechanics made a botch of the old one.

so the filters in no problem and the hand pump went in well also, I can now get rid of the bubbles for a while in the mix and there is definately more power in the engine because of it.

however were still at 80kmh max speed and struggling on inclines. I also get the impression that air is still seeping in from somewhere. Ill check again tomorrow to see if Im still expelling bubbles, Ive bled it about 5 times now.

Im assuming the car will be slow and not to ask for miracles but I still get the impression theres something missing.

when I take the cover off Ill check the valve clearances..does that have an effect on power??..and does anyone off hand know what the shim distances should be??

also now I can properly heat up the engine Ill change the oil and gearbox oil.

I read somewhere that the "purge "liquid works wonders for coked up engines...some weird cleansing fuel substitute or something!?..can anyone recommend this process??

cheers guys more soon
sig
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