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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-20-2013, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Engine going back question

Hi,
I have removed the head and tons of other components and then pulled the engine out with the transmission out
I used the head bolts to connect the chain for pulling out

Now, going back I plan to put most of the components together as per the manual, head, manifolds etc

My question is where do I bolt the chain bolts?
Do I torque all the head bolts in the pattern described in the manual and then remove the two on each end or do I just tighten all the bolts install the engine and then toque?

I don't want to mess up anything not at this stage

Thank you

M130 engine


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 07:20 AM
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Torque the head and remove the bolts. It won't affect the gasket since you haven't started the engine. Don't install the manifolds or anything external. You need all the clearance you can get.

I'd drop the transmission, mate it back with the engine and install the complete unit if it were me.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Mike
The transmission is out so I will be connecting to the block and going in together

I plan to put water pump and power steering pump on the block and the rest once it goes in


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Also forgot to ask and it's not in the manual

How long and what rpms should I run the engine on the first start and how soon do I change the oil?
Local ship recommended zinc rich oil for the first start, what are the recommendations for oil?


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 02:31 PM
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Hi Kav,
This is how I do it in my finnie sedans and coupes.
First thing is you will need an engine leveller so you can change the tilt angle of the motor and trans. You can see mine in the pics below (with my E55 AMG motor jammed in the bay of my '66 250SE coupe bay) - mine has these long brackets with a right angle bend at the bottom, like a foot.
Engine going back question-wp_000632.jpg
On the 6 cyliners, I bolt the bottom 'foot' of these brakets using the bolts through two of the cam towers. You can't see it that well in this pic, but it is the best one I have. The front ones should go on the front tower to enable you to get a lot of tilt.
Engine going back question-wp_000056.jpg

You can also see that I have no problems doing it with everything attached to the motor other than the fan. It does pay though to put cardboard around the trans tunnel and radiator support panel to reduce paint damage.

Cheers, Drew
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 02:36 PM
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Here is an alternate way to remove/install motors, just for your amusement. Assuming it is a carb motor without the big intake like the injected motors.

Attachment 697746
Lift the car off the motor! Then slide/roll the assembly out form under the car. I don't think your car has a removeable front subframe though?

Actually, I do have a motor to pull out of a car shortly, so I will do it today instead so i can get some better pics of where I bolt up to the motor.
Cheers, Drew
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew56cus View Post
Here is an alternate way to remove/install motors, just for your amusement. Assuming it is a carb motor without the big intake like the injected motors.

Attachment 697746
Lift the car off the motor! Then slide/roll the assembly out form under the car. I don't think your car has a removeable front subframe though?

Actually, I do have a motor to pull out of a car shortly, so I will do it today instead so i can get some better pics of where I bolt up to the motor.
Cheers, Drew
Drew
Fantastic info
Thank you so much
I do believe it is so much easier to install everything when motor is out but clearance scares me

I have the leveller and good lift
Here are few pics when I took the engine out but as you can see tons of parts I already removed

Also what is the correct oil and break in procedure after engine rebuild?

Engine going back question-imageuploadedbyag-free1387669300.733039.jpg


Engine going back question-imageuploadedbyag-free1387669327.299890.jpg


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 03:33 AM
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Hi Kav,
Here are some pics of my engine removal today.
Engine going back question-wp_000721.jpg
See where they are attached - biased toward the front.
Engine going back question-wp_000723.jpg
Engine going back question-wp_000727.jpg
This one shows that I also make the front chain shorter than the rear one, to give me more tilt.
(Note the hole through teh sides of the sump so you can see daylight through it!!
Sorry Kav, I don't know the break in procedure other than avoid high revs or sitting on the one speed for very long. I thought that break-in oils were different to regular oils. For our engines, high Zn oils are preferred for regular use. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
Cheers,
Drew
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 06:46 AM
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Another option is to remove the hood release cable assembly, "Sawz-all" the radiator uprights, install the engine assembly and weld the support back into place.

I use the Delo diesel rated oil (Chevron Delo 400 as 15W-40) but the Rotella brand oil is fine also.

You can use water as coolant for the first engine warm-up, re-torqueing of bolts and water leak testing but dont use it for any length of time. In your climate I'd hate to see you doing all this work and then lose the engine due to some unforeseeable incident.

Keep the RPMs low, (below 5000 RPM) avoid "jack rabbit" starts and try to avoid long distance runs at a constant engine speed for the first 1K miles or so. Change the break in oil after the first 1K miles, inspect the oil and enjoy the car for the next 30 years or so until you have to do the job all over again.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 09:50 AM
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Make sure you have oil pressure once the engine starts. It is important to maintain an engine RPM between 1800 and 2200 for the first 15 to 20 minutes. This step ensures proper cam and lifter break in. Allowing the engine to idle at the initial start up could cause damage to the camshaft components.
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