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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Aug 2008
Vehicle: 1971 250C
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Originally Posted by drew56cus View Post
Hi Kav,
Here are some pics of my engine removal today.
Attachment 698433
See where they are attached - biased toward the front.
Attachment 698441
Attachment 698449
This one shows that I also make the front chain shorter than the rear one, to give me more tilt.
(Note the hole through teh sides of the sump so you can see daylight through it!!
Sorry Kav, I don't know the break in procedure other than avoid high revs or sitting on the one speed for very long. I thought that break-in oils were different to regular oils. For our engines, high Zn oils are preferred for regular use. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
Cheers,
Drew
Thank you Drew
This helps tremendously, it will be a tight fit but it is so much easier to assembly most of the components outside of the engine.


by the way why are you removing your engine? to me looks pristine, like new.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Another option is to remove the hood release cable assembly, "Sawz-all" the radiator uprights, install the engine assembly and weld the support back into place.

I use the Delo diesel rated oil (Chevron Delo 400 as 15W-40) but the Rotella brand oil is fine also.

You can use water as coolant for the first engine warm-up, re-torqueing of bolts and water leak testing but dont use it for any length of time. In your climate I'd hate to see you doing all this work and then lose the engine due to some unforeseeable incident.

Keep the RPMs low, (below 5000 RPM) avoid "jack rabbit" starts and try to avoid long distance runs at a constant engine speed for the first 1K miles or so. Change the break in oil after the first 1K miles, inspect the oil and enjoy the car for the next 30 years or so until you have to do the job all over again.

Thank you Mike, i will use Rotella and water for the first warm up, then add antifreeze.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 11:59 AM
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Date registered: Oct 2006
Vehicle: 1965 220SE sedan (finnie) with 450SE conversion, 1964 220SE coupe project, 1966 300SE coupe
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Hi,
The eninge in the pics was that one that the PO had spent $18.5k on getting fully rebuilt. Something was out of balance but he kept driving. He then lost 4th gear so was driving at 4500rpm in 3rd when it went bang. So reading the advice from others on breaking-in, what damage do people think may have been done by running at high rpm's continuously early in the engine's life - what should I be looking for?
I will ring up the shop that rebuilt the engine to see what sort of break-in (if any) they did. They knew he lived 700km away and was going to drive the car home so surely they would have done something to prepare it? But then again, the motor did blow up...

As for cutting out the radiator support bracket, that is what I did on Frankenbenz (with the 450V8). The only advantage in doing that is you don't need to remove the bonnet to get the engine in. I drilled out all the spot welds to do the job neatly and then I got someone to put nutserts in the body. I simply bolt the top piece back on. However, you then have to battle to get the alignment right, as the bonnet (hood) latch is on this piece. Either way you go (removing bonnet and tilting vs cutting out support and bolting in), you either have to align something up - either the bonnet, or the latch. Unless you plan on doing engine changes frequently, I would not bother. I have put pics up here before of my set-up.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you
Even though he was charged retarted amount of money something was not gone right
Breaking period from what I've red takes 20 minutes and some do it on the dyno so in my opinion unless the engine had no oil the owner could not have done anything wrong

The shop did something wrong


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