Mission of Mercy; '62 190D - Page 7 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #61 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 01:11 PM
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I haven't read everything here, but imagine this car was a rotted out pagoda. It would be worth more than $20,000 when reassembled regardless of what the underlying sheet metal looks like in places like the floors. Sure, it wouldn't make a $80,000 or even $60,000 pagoda price, but it might even end up lasting longer than some that have rot that is just beginning. I think what you are doing is cool and creative. Keep up the good work!

I hope to follow in your footsteps learning to weld on some w114 cars I've obtained for under $1000. It's hard to justify buying new sheet metal when the car is so close to being parted.




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post #62 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Don't be too modest Z, it's looking a lot better than I thought it might. Kudos.

What are you using for rust treatment?
Thanks. I'm embarrassed to say, but due to the budget constraints, all I can use is naval jelly, rust neutralizer spray and a rust neutralizing primer. If I were to do this right, I'd be buying a ton of rust mitigation chemicals from Eastwood or Würth, but as it stands, I'm buying from what we affectionately call in the VW community, "Home Depot Motorsports". The seam sealer is a polyurethane caulking used for home construction. I'll coat the interior floorpans and frame rails with a cheap bedliner product, and use a few rolls of butyl rubber flashing material as sound insulation--think Dynamat...but much much cheaper.
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post #63 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 06:57 PM
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Just curious, why not use phosphoric acid. You can get it at Home Depot by the gallon. Then POR-15? Sure, POR-15 is expensive compared to other quarts of paint, but my biggest problem with the expense of buying a can is that I have yet to successfully use a can before it hardens. I imagine that with your project you could come close to using a full quart before it hardens.


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post #64 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'm certainly open to suggestions; the options need to be cheap and locally acquired. Like I said, I have no experience with restorative work, so I'm just blindly following information I glean from build threads I read on the interwebs
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post #65 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-09-2014, 09:37 PM
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I by no means have a trained eye, but I do know that where you are now is light years away from what this owner would have gotten in the typical body shop here in Houston. I have 3 rusty 107's to prove it. Whether it is in construction or auto body the word "quality" is rarely used here anymore. Everything is based on price and the least amount of effort needed to get the most money. If that car was taken to a shop here it would likely have been filled with Bondo and "maybe" some fiberglass, sprayed with cheap paint, and sent down the road.
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post #66 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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I moved on a bit to other mechanical tasks, of which I have more technical experience, though again, not with these chassis. I pulled the door check out of the front PS, as it was only working marginally. I was surprised to see that they used plastic rollers and guides in these, and the two outer guides were fully disintegrated. I replaced them with some copper tubing cut to fit.





I'm in the process of swapping in some pencil-tipped glowplugs from my old '73 220D, and will be including a relay pulled from an '82 240D. I prefer to use relays, as they allow some afterglow once the engine has started, which makes older low compression units run a bit more civilly. I'll mount a small LED in the dash.

I'm also considering running a set of rebuilt OM615 injectors from the same 220D, but I'm not familiar enough with the pre-chambers on these to know whether they're be compatible. I assume the OM621 injectors disassemble into two or more pieces upon removal, so are there crush washers between the sections, or what? There's very little online technical information out there about these engines.

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post #67 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Minor update time again.

I'm back to working on the interior. I've finished sealing and bed-lining (that's a verb, right?) the floor panel and frame rail sections I welded in on the front passenger side. I added butyl rubber roofing flashing over the bedliner, and then cut sections of thick dense foam fatigue mats for the insulation padding. Since both the frame rail and sill plate rubber was completely rotted away, I'm fabricating replacements from hardware sources. This car came originally equipped with just rubber mats, but there are only a couple sections of it still intact enough to reuse. So, I found some interesting carpeting that from a distance looks a lot like the old salt n' pepper loop carpeting used by VWs in this era. The quality is no where near the German stuff, but it's within budget, so...

I'm trying to figure out whether I can use a standard sewing machine to affix the fabric edging.







It turns out that the RR wheelwell is worse off than I originally assessed. The rot affects the interior cabin panel, the wheel well itself, and an interior bulkhead. I can't get in there to weld any of it, without punching a much much larger hole in the panels--not in the budget. So, my approach will be to rust treat the area, and then use a panel adhesive to affix the custom patches I create...add a ton of seam sealer and bedliner, and then hope it works.





If you weren't sure whether I was a hack before, all doubt has now been thoroughly removed.
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post #68 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 02:24 PM
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One man, one pair of hands all that talent. I laugh when I hear the word "FAIR. Building floor pans, repairing whats beyond repair and making it look easy, now making custom carpet also.

Can't wait to see a final shot of this thing



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post #69 of 95 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 09:06 PM
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Z, i have gone througth the thread and I do LIKE what you are doing, even you say you are not resoring this vehicle, I see you are giving another chance to this vehicle to stay a live, my hat off to your dedication and vision on what can be done!
I am with you, it is up to us willing to do it + searching with open mind + being creative will take us where we want to go!
My project is in a 1962 111, I'm working on it, looking for alternatives to get my vehicle where I want and the must important is to enjoy my vehicle all the time, when I'm driving it or working on it.
I know I will learn a lot from the work you are doing, please keep posting!
CONGRATULATIONS!
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post #70 of 95 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks folks!

I've been jumping around a bit with the tasks. I pulled the engine mounts and found them to be even worse than originally thought. The LS mount dropped the center section into the subframe when I unscrewed the bolt. I think these are in fact the worst mounts I've ever encountered on a running and semi-operable vehicle.





I also swapped out the fuel primer pump, which was leaking badly. If your early MB diesel still has the knurled knob type pump installed, there's a high likelihood that it's leaking and allowing air into the system. I strongly recommend you upgrade to the new style pump.



I'm in the middle of templating for the inner frame rail rubber covers. I cut them out and they appear to fit, but I won't take pics until I'm ready to glue them down. You can see the grey outer door sill covers I fabbed up. I'm going for a multi-tone grey and black interior theme. The only remaining rubber carpet piece I'll be using is the piece that goes over the transmission hump. That would be very hard to replicate in either rubber or carpeting, as it's molded to fit.






A while back I was reading a thread in here about someone who had upgraded their early model MB to newer style three point seatbelts. Back when I looked at that link, I saw that there were several options for receptacle lengths. Does anyone have any insights into which option works best for 110/111 models? I'm thinking about welding a bracket with captive nuts to the center pillars for the reels and lower strap mount, rather than bolting them to the floor pans.

Last edited by Zeitgeist; 06-08-2014 at 12:11 AM.
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