Mission of Mercy; '62 190D - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #31 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014, 11:53 AM
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.....PM scoot and ask him to grab and send you all the padding and skins from that car in the junk yard...
Sorry, I'm not nearly that nice. Unless someone has something I really want for trade, I don't ship things that are hard to package and labor intensive. (I don't ship body panels, doors, fenders, engines, transmissions, bumpers, windshields,...) The largest thing I routinely ship is wheels. I've gotten burned on the "ship me a 3rd row seat for a W123 wagon" before and it was not worth the time it took to pack it.

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #32 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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The concern regarding road safety was mostly about the cracked tire sidewalls, no parking brake and the fact that the sketchy Volvo seatbelt attachments in the floor were ready to pull out. The basic structural integrity of the car is surprisingly rigid, despite the obvious rot. The doors all open and close normally even when all jacked up on each side. I have no concerns about the welds cracking, and I'm positive it will be stiffer than new due to the minimal bracing I'll be adding. I won't be rebuilding the jackpoints (not within this budget), so an alternative type of scissor jack will need to be added to the trunk.

The '90's seats are going in because I have them and they're free. I suggested installing the burgundy 108 seats I also have, but she's become enamored with my idea for the two-tone grey door cards. They're classic MB seats, and with the nifty chrome hinges, they should end up looking far less inappropriate than if I had a set of velour Honda seats sitting around here.
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post #33 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scoot View Post
Sorry, I'm not nearly that nice. Unless someone has something I really want for trade, I don't ship things that are hard to package and labor intensive. (I don't ship body panels, doors, fenders, engines, transmissions, bumpers, windshields,...) The largest thing I routinely ship is wheels. I've gotten burned on the "ship me a 3rd row seat for a W123 wagon" before and it was not worth the time it took to pack it.
You and me both. Been burned with shipping one too many times.
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post #34 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-12-2014, 12:00 PM
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I have a 64 W110 "beater / rust bucket" that I drive occasionally on the back roads in the warm months. I am following your progress and enjoying this thread.

One day, due to attrition, the cars may become worth the $ put in to them. But for the time being = spend minimal $ and go drive them! Remember, these cars were (and are) still being driven on Rallyes around the world!

On my 64, the clip holes on the door are oval. This allows for some room for the metal clip, which is on the door card, to engage it. The metal clips were used into the W114 / W115 era, so should be readily available on EBay or the MB Classic Center in CA.

Keep the faith.
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post #35 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 12:17 PM
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No sense in buying another door card when you can make your own for cheap. Use the old skins - i'd guess they're coming off easily anyhow, and paste them onto something from Lowes or even Michaels (a crafts shop here). You're looking for something light and thin that can be shaped with hand tools or light saws. I did this with the rear window shelf on my 108, and no one would be the wiser.
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post #36 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, I'm using 1/8" bathboard for the structural part. I think I'll buy a Rotozip to rout out all the openings. Joann Fabrics sells a really high quality grey vinyl that's a few shades too dark, but should be fine.

How are the wood strips affixed to the door cards on the W111 models with this feature? I'm trying to figure out whether I can find screws short enough but "grippy" to hold the wood from the backside
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post #37 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-13-2014, 01:10 PM
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The wood on the door cards has a slot in the back of them. A thin metal plate slides into this slot, and has some tabs that poke through the door card and are folded over to retain the timber strip to the card.
I am looking forward to pics of your progress. I met a young guy near my place last week with a stash of about 8 finnies, most of which were in better condition than these - so I am amazed by how far sentimentality can drive things! Pity you are not in oz as I could hook you up with a far better car to cut bits out of.

Last edited by drew56cus; 02-13-2014 at 01:16 PM.
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post #38 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the great input so far. Small update to the update.

I've begun the process of transferring the outline of the door cards onto the bathboard. The original cards are really warped and none of the mounting clip holes are intact, so I'm having to do some measuring. Since all of the oval holes are roughly equidistant from the perimeter, I welded up a flange onto a drafting compass so that I could match the inner and outer edges, especially those on the arc at the rear of the back doors. As you can see, just relying upon tracing would've led to inaccurate locations along the arc.



Here I'm test-fitting that RR card. Since the vinyl I'm using is thicker than original, I'm considering trimming the edges back by about .5mm to compensate.



Can anyone think of a reason why I can't just use the cards created for the right side and just invert them as templates on the left side? I just need to remember to set the plastic laminate side to the outside against the door itself.
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post #39 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-15-2014, 02:07 PM
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Can anyone think of a reason why I can't just use the cards created for the right side and just invert them as templates on the left side? I just need to remember to set the plastic laminate side to the outside against the door itself.

By way of subscribing to this wonderful thread.... no. They should be identical, in a reverse kinda way.
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post #40 of 95 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Minor updates to the updates:

The project took a hiatus while I was addressing other projects and life in general, but it's now back into production mode. I began repairing the structural rigidity lost due to the missing frame rails and floorpans on the RS. It's amazing how much rigidity is improved by just welding the inner longitudinal frame rail back to the latitudinal crossmember. I'm now working to rebuild the rotted jackpoint, by adding a new latitudinal rail between the jackpoint and the aforementioned inner rail. I tied this to the heavy vertical frames that run up the pillar. Instead of the Bilstein tube-type jack, this car will now use a Jetta scissor-type jack that lifts at an artificial pinch weld seam that I'll weld under the reinforced jackpoint located further inward. Just to reiterate, this is not a restoration; it is getting the car road worthy again, so please don't ding me for failing to stick to the MB plan. Most of this will get boxed in with sheetmetal and be unseen, but that diagonal brace is kinda in yer face. The floorpan rails are just tacked in now, but I'll go back and stitch weld them in for a more permanent fix. Cardboard/wood mockups are really critical. I had planned to install a one piece pan in there, but the mockup revealed that this wasn't possible, due to interference from the seat brackets. I then had to add the lateral brace, which isn't a bad idea anyway

All new and rusted metal will get rust treatment, and seams will be generously slathered with seam sealing compound
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