Mission of Mercy; '62 190D - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 95 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 09:03 PM
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Gahh, I stand corrected. Odd that entry-level diesels would overlap like that.
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post #12 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Not much new to report. I'm in the parts acquisition phase. I picked up a turn signal switch and bought a 3'x3' section of 16 gauge sheet metal. I'd like to source a complete climate control box if possible, as the heater cores and valves appear to be toast. I might try pulling them and having the cores re-soldered and the valves o-ringed; that's possible, right?

I pulled the rear seat cushion and you can see why the emergency brake brackets rust off, since they're situated in valleys that accumulate water intruding from the leaking rear window seals. On that topic, I know full well that window seal replacement is a no-brainer as far as typical repairs go, but it's also a can of worms, since the seals are no doubt covering up significant body cancer. An unorthodox "solution" I've been contemplating is to clean the seals as best I can, and then heat up a butyl rubber compound and pour it into the seal fissures...again, buying time. I really don't want to "goop" up the seals with a shiny black silicone sealant if possible. Keep in mind that this is a "stabilization" project, not a restoration--not even close.

I intend to roll the car into my shop in early January, after I complete my current project, which is a bunch of custom welding on my friend's Syncro.
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post #13 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 02:43 PM
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Vehicle: 1965 220SE sedan (finnie) with 450SE conversion, 1964 220SE coupe project, 1966 300SE coupe
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Geez, finnies are not so rare and expensive that I would bother trying to fix that one. Is there some sort of sentimental value for the lady with the car? I think that whole car will be one never ending can of worms.
Good luck, Drew
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post #14 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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No argument from me on that count. Customer wants the work done, despite my initial protestations. I also like challenges so in a schizophrenic way, it's two against one...with the one being common sense.
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post #15 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-13-2013, 09:15 PM
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Wow, you do have your hands full there.
I'm sure owner has a budget in mind and you're trying to make all the fixes within that range, just don't open up too many panels cause you'll be really second guessing yourself.
Keep the repairs simple and quick or else. Later.

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post #16 of 95 (permalink) Old 01-19-2014, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Finally pulled it into the shop for the major surgery. I removed the passenger seat and began tearing out the soundproofing and tar paper in order to separate the rot from solid metal. It looks like I'll be replacing both sections of floorpan before and after the center rib, as well as a few patches to the perimeter "frame" rails. Again, to emphasize my understanding that this car is in rough condition. I'll fire up my plasma cutter tomorrow and begin cutting out the rot.

I've been led to believe that the brake cable arrangement on these was a single loop from wheel to wheel, but when I snipped the tie wraps temporarily holding them to the control arms, I found that they're separate with ends that clip onto the bracket around midships. So, I just need to re-weld the retaining brackets to the floorpan under the rear seat to theoretically regain parking brake functions. Big relief.

I still could use some advice/pics about how the steering column is intended to be mounted to the dash, and how best to access/service the column shifter bushings
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post #17 of 95 (permalink) Old 01-19-2014, 05:53 PM
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I'm not with my car but I believe that rusty head bolt you can see on your underside pic of steering column goes through a tab, probably on both sides, maybe one is missing making it feel loose but not actually dropping?
EDIT: I was able to check my car and there is a strap connected at those bolts that just follows the profile of the column. It looks like you could easily make one with no noticeable difference if painted black.

One bushing is under the shifter if you remove the chrome bezel and take it out it should be smiling up at you, I believe there's another further down where the column terminates but don't remember exactly, and I have a W111 so could vary, and then where the ball socket attaches underneath to the transmission via the rod, there is plastic inside these that wear so replace those too so she doesn't get stranded when one comes off, finally there are rubber rings on the top of the transmission (on an auto) that you pull pins to remove and then replace the rings. You can buy the bits but some more savvy sellers now package them as a kit so you know you have everything. Wish I knew the W110 more but possibly this will help: http://www.niemoeller.de/artikelbild..._D54768_en.jpg

Looking over that diagram I would say (confirm this as it's hard for me to make it all out) that #11 under the stalk would be a white/clear plastic bushing, #51 looks to be another plastic one, #53 would be the ball end. The dealer has access to this same diagram and any part dept can order for you and confirm what I wrote, don't need to go to Classic Center but it will come from there if your dealer doesn't stock. Won't be more than a couple bucks each.

Also, put some flowable silicone around the glass seals at front and rear, it seems water ingress through the rear seal has caused the rusting seen under the seat unless it really is that bad underneath. On the rubber section running along the top of the windshield you can flow it in from the top between seal and chrome, don't try to go between the glass and rubber underneath because it will flow out, it's very thin. Water normally comes from above anyway so you will eliminate most of it. You may be able to do both sides on the bottom section of seal.

Good on you for doing this, seemingly the lady is fond of the car and you're doing her a great service. If you start to feel overwhelmed with any part just step back and have a very close look, often you will begin to understand the madness behind the over-engineering (I don't think there is such a thing) as you examine each part and see how and why it's made in that manner. This was built by Germans, it's going to be logical if you do it their way.

-Marrs

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"Too many people are working at jobs they hate, to buy things they don't particularly want, to impress people they don't even care about." --Dr. Deepak Chopra

Last edited by DirectLA; 01-21-2014 at 10:38 AM.
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post #18 of 95 (permalink) Old 01-19-2014, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew56cus View Post
I think that whole car will be one never ending can of worms.
This one is a can of tin worms.

-Marrs

The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs)official website
The Coupe Group on Facebook


"Too many people are working at jobs they hate, to buy things they don't particularly want, to impress people they don't even care about." --Dr. Deepak Chopra
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post #19 of 95 (permalink) Old 01-19-2014, 07:07 PM
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Clearly this is going to be a money pit so we have to assume you are doing this for therapy. I bought a 63 220S that is in good shape in many ways, not running, all brakes getting re-done by me, etc. I recognize that I could have spent more and saved by buying a better car. But I also recognize that working on this is relaxing to me and gets my mind off the stress of my "real" life. I truly enjoy the time scraping the stuff off the suspension (although I wouldn't have even started on the car if it were rusty). But we all have different levels of pain tolerance.

Today I spent $300 at the pick-a-part getting parts off of a 110 fintail that I mostly can't use. I'm not sure why. But it was relaxing, the weather was in the high 70s, and I didn't have to think about work or phone calls....

Have fun with your project.

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #20 of 95 (permalink) Old 02-11-2014, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Purists should back click right now. You have been warned

Alright here's an update on the update.

The customer and I huddled a bit and decided that since I was going through all the effort to rehab the missing floor, it didn't make sense to leave the dreadful original seats in there, since you could barely sit on them.

This should give you an idea of what they were like:




So, keeping in mind that THIS IS NOT A RESTORATION, I hatched a plan to update the entire interior in a manner that was within budget, mostly Mercedes and tastefully period appropriate...ish. I have the original grey MB-tex seats from my '90 300D left over from when I converted to leather and they're in nearly perfect condition. I'm going to weld the attachment points for the 110 seat hinges to the seat backs, and it turns out that the bosses already exist in the bottom cushions. I'll use the nicer 108 slider assemblies welded to 110 pedestals. I will be cutting new door cards from bath board, with a nice thin cushion of foam overlaid with two parts grey vinyl on top and a nifty '50's/'60's themed silver-grey fabric. These two sections will be bisected by a thin curved piece of birch wood strip...shhhh, don't tell anyone, but they're from IKEA wood blinds we had lying around. My inspiration for this door card combo is the early '60's VW Type 3 interior:







The dash wood appears to be beech, so I hope I can come up with a stain and finish that makes the two types of wood appear similar.


Ok, so now taking off my Serge the interior decorator smock and putting on my Randy the Riveter cap, back to the nasty stuff that started this project. The floor pan rot is even worse than expected. It's extended up into the unibody frame rails on the RF side, so I'll need to box those in, as well as the sections below the passenger seat frame.



The rest of the pan/frame issues are mostly just cut n' patch stitch jobs, followed by rust treatment and a sealer like bedliner or some such product. The rubber floor mats were mostly rotted, so I'd love some advice as to how I can recreate the floor coverings without relying upon Home Depot motorsports, which is kind of tacky. I can do tacky, but it's not very satisfying. Any hints on how I can deal with a sadly dilapidated padded dash would be greatly appreciated. On the bright side, the headliner is in really good condition.






Last edited by Zeitgeist; 02-11-2014 at 09:06 PM.
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