Mission of Mercy; '62 190D - Page 10 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #91 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Sep 2004
Vehicle: '87 300TD/'90 300D/'94 Quattro/'89 Vanagon TDI/'01 EV Weekender VR6
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Hi Miguel, the front floor pan, and in fact the entire interior is all welded up, sealed and sound-proofed. The front seats are re-assembled and installed, as is the dash. I had to remove the padded top section of the dash, as it was cracked, broken and warped beyond salvaging. I'm in the final stages of assembling and installing the door panels, after taking an inordinately long time fitting them. Also, due to the constant heat (we just had the hottest June here on record), I found that the adhesives I'd been using were insufficient, and so I'm having to go back and re-attach quite a few pieces with a more expensive bonding agent.

I found that the coolant gauge didn't work, so I installed an old aftermarket VDO unit I had squirreled away in my shop. I really love modifications I did to the glow circuitry. The plugs are now triggered by the ignition switch via a relay from an OM616, so the "gorilla knob" is just used to engage the starter and shut off the engine. Much less stress and strain.

I'll take some pics once the door panels are completed and installed.
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post #92 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-02-2015, 03:15 PM
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Date registered: May 2014
Vehicle: 1962, 220b (W111 010 50)
Location: Metepec, Mexico
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It will be very interesting to see the floor after all the work, do you have pictures?
If my second lenguage lets me get understood, I would like to as how do you weld the sheet mettal? do you overlay the panels or you get them together and weld the edghes? I being doing some panel welding and I have done both, but what will be the best? Also you mention about sound proof and seal, would you share more about it? illustrations will be good.
Regards!
Miguel.
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post #93 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-07-2015, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Sep 2004
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Ah bloody hell, I'm getting hung up on a clutch master cylinder that went tit's up just sitting in my shop. I can't seem to locate an appropriate unit outside of the dealer, and those are way way way outside the budget on this project. The clutch pedal assembly appears to have been butchered at some point in the past, so I'm not sure that it's even still stock to a '61/'62/'63 110 chassis. I removed the unit, and it has no identifying marks, except to indicate that it has a 19mm piston and is an ATE brand. My EPC subscription expired and it's giving me fits when I try to re-up. When I try and reverse engineer the part, it appears to be a late 110 type with the part # 0002952306, though the part # 0002952406 appears to be quite similar and is considerably less expensive, though roughly twice the price I originally quoted the client.

Has anyone tried swapping in a unit from a 114/115 chassis, part #0012958706 ? They look pretty similar, but I would need to slightly modify the inlet tubing orientation.
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post #94 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-07-2015, 06:06 PM
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Date registered: May 2014
Vehicle: 1962, 220b (W111 010 50)
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Have you tried the Russian people, I have the following link and probably it will help! 50020700 ? Master Cylinder, clutch ? ?????????? ???? - ???????? ??? ????????? ? ??????????
I have not done business with them but it looks like they handle many parts for our model, do you know?

If I can be of any help please let me know. I do have a 1964 donnor vehicle and if needed we can work it out. (Picture attached)

Best regards!
Miguel.
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post #95 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-08-2015, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pic. The cylinder on that assembly appears to be the version used on gas cars. I can't for the life of me figure out why MB would use different cylinders on gas and diesel engine vehicles. Since I've successfully rebuilt other clutch cylinders in the past, I'm attempting to resurrect this one by using seals from a VW FAG brand cylinder which also has a 19mm bore. I honed it out after seeing no obvious signs of rust pitting, vertical scratching or taper. We'll see how it operates shortly. If that doesn't work, I'll just have to see if a suitable alternative can be used.
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