M130 engine removal\rebuild - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #21 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Few more pics of the progress
Tranny removed, engine mounted and few other parts at the front

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185641.197168.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185654.973129.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185672.309606.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185700.440426.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185714.025587.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185734.307670.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185747.291833.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386185758.424131.jpg




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post #22 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-06-2013, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Look what I found when I opened the oil pan
Tons of silicone everywhere and the oil filter was stuffed inside with garbage
Someone went crazy with the stuff
And not a single bolt is tighten properly and few had missing washers
Someone did garbage of a job here

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386371880.630288.jpg


M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386371896.797084.jpg


M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386371935.546970.jpg


M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386371963.931227.jpg


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post #23 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-06-2013, 08:12 PM
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Oh. No.

I was hoping it would not come to this after you discovered the two missing bell housing bolts. A hack has violated the absolute and clear order of your internal combustion engine, creating a disturbance in the Mercedes force.

Keep digging deeper. You are doing a great job and the engine will soon be restored to proper nick.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles
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post #24 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-06-2013, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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I finally took the engine apart.
First of all I feel now that I can put the engine back together, everything was so easy to remove I couldn't even believe how easy the pistons came out.

Now,
I think I am ready to claim that I have found the problem.
In my opinion the reason why re engine was opened last time is to replace the main bearings.
They look like they were put in yesterday

I'm afraid that is not the case with the big end rod bearings
Piston 1 were good, piston 2 excellent looking silver
Piston 3,4, and 5 have copper color and the crankshaft has grooves on that area, not smooth as the 1,2 and 6

My question is, do these bearings have wear indicators and is it the copper layer?
And how is this causing the ticking, throws of balance the pistons?
Everything else looks good, really good.
Pistons are good, rings are good, engine block walls are in fantastic shape.

This is my guess for now, I will take all of the components to a shop for measurements to confirm my theory.
I didn't find destruction I expected to see but I think there is defiantly wear on the big end rod bearings.

Can anyone comment based on the pictures?
Thank you
M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388230.811099.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388245.573718.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388257.389521.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388273.757240.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388297.673952.jpg

Piston 1 bearings

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388314.640056.jpg


Piston 3,4 and 5 bearings

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388362.559222.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388383.091101.jpg

M130 engine removal\rebuild-imageuploadedbyag-free1386388395.607314.jpg


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Last edited by kavadarci; 12-06-2013 at 09:23 PM.
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post #25 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 06:31 AM
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I'm going to try one more time to talk sense to you. STOP with what you are doing with the engine. You have a seriously compromised engine assembly on your hands. I can almost guarantee the crank is worn beyond machining tolerance and I assure you the hardened surfaces of the crank journals are history. The fact the ring/piston assemblies slid out easily doesn't instill me with confidence regarding the bore wear.

If the cylinder head you pulled is in good shape and it's already in the machine shop then purchase a rebuilt short block from a reputable source. If they haven't started work on the head then get a complete engine.

I can tell you what happened to that engine. Someone over heated, blew a head gasket and ran it with coolant leaking into the oil until it wouldn't go any more. They pulled the engine (missing bolts tell the story), got an estimate on repairing the damage and decided to "half-arse" the repair. You have the result.

If the bore is beyond standard size you will be buying new pistons and rings at a minimum and I bet they will set you back over a grand and that's not even figuring machine work on the block and who knows what shape the crank and rods are in.

Last edited by Mike D; 12-07-2013 at 06:33 AM.
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post #26 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I'm going to try one more time to talk sense to you. STOP with what you are doing with the engine. You have a seriously compromised engine assembly on your hands. I can almost guarantee the crank is worn beyond machining tolerance and I assure you the hardened surfaces of the crank journals are history. The fact the ring/piston assemblies slid out easily doesn't instill me with confidence regarding the bore wear.

If the cylinder head you pulled is in good shape and it's already in the machine shop then purchase a rebuilt short block from a reputable source. If they haven't started work on the head then get a complete engine.

I can tell you what happened to that engine. Someone over heated, blew a head gasket and ran it with coolant leaking into the oil until it wouldn't go any more. They pulled the engine (missing bolts tell the story), got an estimate on repairing the damage and decided to "half-arse" the repair. You have the result.

If the bore is beyond standard size you will be buying new pistons and rings at a minimum and I bet they will set you back over a grand and that's not even figuring machine work on the block and who knows what shape the crank and rods are in.

Mike, thank you for the input.
First of all there is no reputable source to buy rebuild short block in Canada, parts are much more difficult to find. i would not throw this engine yet until i get the measurements and opinion from the engine shop. i don't think its the first nor the last engine to have the bearings worn.

getting used engine is a gamble, could be worse than mine, i can't tell unless it works on the car but even then. i have an opportunity to make things right here. Again, without all the components being measured its a guess. I will advise once i have that info.
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post #27 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 07:18 AM
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Garage
I dont know if these are correct to what you need, or what oversize they are. worth checking out

Mercedes Benz M130 W113 280SL 300SE 300SEL Pistons Kit 1300309517 Mahle | eBay

good luck at machinist to measure.
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post #28 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 07:21 AM
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Well, I admire your persistence. I question your judgement but I question MY judgement almost every time I tear into one of my old Benz.

Good luck.
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post #29 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-07-2013, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I admire your persistence. I question your judgement but I question MY judgement almost every time I tear into one of my old Benz.

Good luck.
Mike
You have opened more than one engine and this is my first one, so you have more experience on the topic.
I just don't want to give up on it until I hear from the shop. If it's only grinding the crankshaft and putting next size bearings, this is a no brainier for me, the engine stays.

If it's the rest of the things like pistons, block etc I have no other choice but to look for another engine and this is an exercise I don look forward to entertain.

We'll see what is my luck next week.
I will provide an update soon.

Thank you

Here is a video I took before removing the bearings
http://youtu.be/7RBHvlt3Hhk



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post #30 of 128 (permalink) Old 12-08-2013, 02:58 PM
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Hmm, this will be interesting to see how it works out for you. I just bought a finnie that someone had paid a shop to rebuild the motor - the bill was $18,600! It did 700km before detonating and blowing holes in the sump and block. Something was seriously wrong. I got the invoices for the original engine build though - just the pistons alone cost $1800. So there is serious money to rebuild a whole engine. I am hoping to swap all the good bits into another block. I will open it up over Xmas to see what I do and don't have. It seems crazy that rebuilding an MB motor should cost more than about 5 chev V8's...
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