M130 engine removal\rebuild - Page 13 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #121 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 10:56 AM
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OK, most likely you will require a new head gaskit as the water port has eroded towards the gaskit ring area and leaking coolant into a cylinder.
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post #122 of 128 (permalink) Old 05-27-2014, 10:59 AM
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OK, We had a friend's M130 engine with the cherry red rear 3 cylinders after a short run.
Rectified by closing off the stuck heat raiser of the rear carb.
Yours will require a new head gaskit as most likely a coolant port has erroded into the gaskit.
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post #123 of 128 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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(Thread Starter)
Hi,

to answer few questions:

I rebuild the engine because i had ticking noise from the engine and low oil pressure.
It turned out the piston rod bearings on 3 cylinders were damaged causing the noise and the low oil pressure.

Here are two videos with the noise and after rebuild:

1. Before the rebuild where ticking exists due to the worn bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eeUnQTAtFo
2. After rebuild where the engine is nice and smooth:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okzdm_GKyKs
Can you notice the difference?

I also had the heat risers welded in shut position so no need to worry. Check my previous posts for pictures.

I resolved the leak with the curil-t sealant after removing the studs and installing again. I think studs 4.5.6 from the front go into the water jacket for sure. the last two don't.

I also had oil leak from the fuel pump connection to the block and found that the resin gasket that was there all along is not the correct. Ordered correct and all is good now.

If you have a coolant leak and whoosh sound after running the engine I would start with the manifold studs and move along. If the studs are ok, then you are just few steps from removing the head and changing the head gasket.

I had Adler recommend to change gasket in my case but keep in mind, everything is new on my engine, fresh rebuild. not to list but all gaskets, hoses, clamps, chain, tensioners, valve guides, blah blah blah is new.

I've put over 200 kms on the car so far and the engine runs good and strong. Will continue to monitor for further leaks.
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post #124 of 128 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 01:25 PM
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Kavadarci...
Nice work! That thing sounds nice and happy.

Quick question
Do you recall the K&N part number of the filters you used on the carbs?

Thanks
-Nate
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post #125 of 128 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 12:16 AM
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just reading this post. i have a 72 250c .. engine has rod knock. i will be rebuilding it myself. i like your thread. will help much as i have never worked on mercedes engine. what i am trying to find are the engine specs. info for the measurements of the crank, rods, and piston etc. do you know where i can find them.. i would like to compare my parts before taking to a machine shop and if it can be machined i would like to remeasure after.. thanks
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post #126 of 128 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 09:55 PM
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question about mounting the engine

I have a question about the engine stand and mounting the engine, did you mount it with the bellhousing plate in place or what did you do? what kind of bolts did you use to mount it?

I have a M115 engine from a 200, is a 2 liter inline 4 as you may know. I have no clue how to mount the engine there, I dont know if I have to use that plate... help plz :/ I'm afraid I may end up breaking some bolts doing it


Quote:
Originally Posted by kavadarci View Post
Few more pics of the progress
Tranny removed, engine mounted and few other parts at the front

Attachment 675170

Attachment 675178

Attachment 675186

Attachment 675194

Attachment 675202

Attachment 675210

Attachment 675218

Attachment 675226



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
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post #127 of 128 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solidglobe View Post
just reading this post. i have a 72 250c .. engine has rod knock. i will be rebuilding it myself. i like your thread. will help much as i have never worked on mercedes engine. what i am trying to find are the engine specs. info for the measurements of the crank, rods, and piston etc. do you know where i can find them.. i would like to compare my parts before taking to a machine shop and if it can be machined i would like to remeasure after.. thanks
Have you found your measurements for the M130 engine, if not I actually still have the original manual. It was called the TDM or technical data manual.
standard bore 86.5/ 86.522 and they offered 2 repair size pistons
main journal 59.965/ 59.955
rod pins 47.965/ 47.955
these are standard sizes
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post #128 of 128 (permalink) Old 04-16-2015, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kavadarci View Post
Hi,

to answer few questions:

I rebuild the engine because i had ticking noise from the engine and low oil pressure.
It turned out the piston rod bearings on 3 cylinders were damaged causing the noise and the low oil pressure.

Here are two videos with the noise and after rebuild:

1. Before the rebuild where ticking exists due to the worn bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eeUnQTAtFo
2. After rebuild where the engine is nice and smooth:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okzdm_GKyKs
Can you notice the difference?

I also had the heat risers welded in shut position so no need to worry. Check my previous posts for pictures.

I resolved the leak with the curil-t sealant after removing the studs and installing again. I think studs 4.5.6 from the front go into the water jacket for sure. the last two don't.

I also had oil leak from the fuel pump connection to the block and found that the resin gasket that was there all along is not the correct. Ordered correct and all is good now.

If you have a coolant leak and whoosh sound after running the engine I would start with the manifold studs and move along. If the studs are ok, then you are just few steps from removing the head and changing the head gasket.

I had Adler recommend to change gasket in my case but keep in mind, everything is new on my engine, fresh rebuild. not to list but all gaskets, hoses, clamps, chain, tensioners, valve guides, blah blah blah is new.

I've put over 200 kms on the car so far and the engine runs good and strong. Will continue to monitor for further leaks.
First thing, I think you did a great job with your project. This is the first time I have seen your story as I haven't been on line here for quite a while and I am curious about a couple of things. One is the mysterious water leak, it seems to have resolved itself somehow but I wouldn't turn my back on it too soon, is there any possibility that the head gasket got tapped while installing the head? That engine had 2 gasket styles as the early one was almost square in shape and the one shown was the later style. As for machining the corrosion those heads suffered from has been an issue since a month after they were built so any machine shop would have seen and welded it if that were an issue. I had one many years ago that had a cracked head behind a valve seat and I took the head off a couple of times before we got it. I never had a stud leak other than one time and it was a mounting stud for an alternator bracket that was hit by a crankshaft throw. I would bet on either a head gasket damaged during assay or a engine side cover that is mounted beneath the manifold. The linkage should attach to one of them, maybe that was a SE engine. The other concern is the exhaust manifold heating flap. They should be functional as they serve a purpose, a heat riser in American having a bimetallic spring that works like the choke. When cold the flap is closed restricting the exhaust flow and when it warms up the spring weakens and the flap opens easily allowing easy exhaust flow. The purpose is the keep hot exhaust gasses on the bottom of the intake manifold causing better atomization of fuel in a cold engine. if the flap were to be closed it wold diminish performance on the 3 cylinders involved. That being said i would leave it opened if I didn't want to fix it properly. I ran a dyno during the years that car was popular and fixed many manifolds for that issue. As for WD40, it was designed for fishing reels and gate hinges but not for applications where extreme pressures are to be expected. Assembly grease in my first choice and maybe 40 wt oil based on expected on length of time engine will sit before it is fired up. In that body I mostly left the trans in the car and pulled the engine by itself, it eliminates all the dancing around. Later cars had a removable radiator support that helped tons with clearance. Fun to watch and read your story and most of my suggestions are for other readers who might be getting ready to do it themselves.
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