Guide rail pin removal issue - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-14-2013, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Feb 2010
Vehicle: 1972 280SEL daily driver. 904 Dark Blue with cognac interior. euro 4.5 engine
Location: Williamsburg, VA
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Guide rail pin removal issue

I am in the middle of replacing my dead M117 with a newer M117 in my 280SEL. Prior to installing the new engine, i am doing some maintenance; new front and rear seals, valve seals, gaskets, chain etc... to the new engine.

Now the issue. Apparently the PO of this engine did not ever want the pins for the chain guides to come out, because they are way in there. I have a homemade slide hammer which pulls pins fine in my old engine, but will not budge these. I've soaked in penetrating oil, heated them with a heat gun, pulled with my slide hammer, but none of them will budge.

Suggestions?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-14-2013, 10:21 AM
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Garage
I find a pulller works better than blows.

you can rig a puller out of a bolt that fits all the way to the bottom of the threads, nuts, a socket, some washers and such.

I think you create a stronger force by the more gentle pulling action. make sure the bolt is to the bottom so you dont strip threads.


I did this on my W126 and was surprised how tight they were.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-14-2013, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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It took a trip to the hardware store because all I had were some 3/8" coarse thread bolts to use as jacks. They stripped. It took 4 x 3/8" grade 8 fine thread bolts to spread the load enough that I could finally get them to break loose. Worked though and that's what matters. Thanks for the advice.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-14-2013, 03:24 PM
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Vehicle: 1981 300TD 310k--1966 230 165k--1970 280se 172k
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I have the puller tool so that makes it easy. There is not enough clearance for my slide hammer, even with the radiator removed.

The pin is 6mm fine pitch. I found to my chagrin that the pin for the tensioner rail is 8mm fine pitch. I had to use my balancer puller and a combination of bolts and nuts to get it out. It was tight.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-15-2013, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Feb 2010
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Thought I would post a photo documenting why it is important to change guide rails. These came out of the "new" 4.5 I'm putting in my W108. Both the long rails in the head were broken. One had a chunk missing while the one in the left head was boken in half. The top half was still in the head, but the bottom half had made it through the chain and was residing horizontally in the cavity where the distributor drive gear sits. From the looks of what is left of the guide, the engine ran a long time with the broken rail because it has significant grooves worn in at the broken end.

BTW, they were both "genuine" mercedes parts.
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