I sent the motor oil link you posted to a friemnd of mine who worked for over 40 years as a "Tehcnical Analyist" for Toyota. We have known each other since high school and in the 60's and 70's we were off road motorcycle racers together. I continued with that motorcycle racing until 2001 and he drifted into Bonneville salt flats racing.
Here's the correspondence about the Ferrari link. Please notice the credentials of the person providing the commentary:
This my friend Tim Wusz response to the Motor oil dialog. Tim worked for Union Oil for as long as I worked at Toyota. He was Union Oil racing representative to Nascar and NHRA. I also ask him some questions about a dry lakes racing friend who runs a turbo charged Mazda.
From: Tim Wusz <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: 'Norman Adams' <email@example.com>
Sent: Fri, Oct 4, 2013 1:05 pm
Subject: RE: Motor oil
For your street cars, you are correct in thinking that 0W-30 oil is a good choice. When not available, the 5W-30 is fine. In our mild climate, the 5W-30 is fine for “cold” starts since the starts are not very cold compared to Minnesota in February. The main benefit of multi-vis oil is to get oil quickly to all moving parts For older engines with lots of miles on them, stepping up to higher vis oil is common since ring wear, valve stem wear, seal wear all lead to oil consumption/loss. The higher vis oils help to reduce oil consumption/loss.
The Ferrari Guy is dangerous to the lubricant industry because he is partially knowledgeable and partially un-informed and he has taken the time to write 21 pages of partial truth. Which half does the layman want to believe?
The 10 psi per 1000 RPM is good to 7000 RPM. Beyond that more pressure is likely counter-productive especially if you have a 12,000 RPM engine. High pressures can contribute to “bearing erosion” besides using up horsepower that could be used to make a race car go faster. Higher vis oils can waste power also especially if the system has a bypass valve that is bypassing oil much of the time. In 1981 or 1982, I did the first of my “vis work” with a Winston Cup Team that had a wet sump system. The team I worked with was the fastest qualifier for the Daytona 500 and also set a new track record which was a very prestigious thing at the time that paid an extra $25K. By 1987 dry sump systems that moved 9 gallons of oil per minute at 8000 RPM were in use. More testing revealed that the difference (other than 5 psi of oil pressure) between 20W-50 oil and 10W-30 oil was nine horsepower at the flywheel. The engine builder was amazed.
On the Mazda engine oil pump breakage issue, could they be running with excessive oil pressure that would cause gear failure? Maybe Mazda has a better quality pump cartridge or someone in the aftermarket. Those crank driven pumps are turning twice as fast as the old school pumps that we are all used to seeing and thinking about That turned at camshaft speed.
On the fuel pump issue, most aftermarket fuel pressure regulators have a reference port that take a vacuum/pressure signal from the intake manifold. This helps to maintain a significant pressure differential between the fuel rail pressure and the manifold so the injectors are not overpowered by the intake manifold pressure. Manifold pressure can also be used to reduce spark timing under boost conditions because the burn time is quicker when the fuel and oxygen molecules are closer together. A general rule of thumb is to reduce spark timing by one degree for every one to two pounds of intake manifold boost. Every engine is slightly different.
When a cylinder goes lean like you indicated, the piston usually does get damaged from detonation especially on a boosted engine. To take out the head gasket takes lots of pressure and/or block/head distortion from the pressure. Solutions include stainless steel O-rings, more head bolts, less boost, bigger head bolts or studs. Maximum cylinder pressure with normal combustion is in the range of 1500 psi. but when detonation takes place, pressure can/will exceed 3000 psi. There is real incentive to stay “detonation free” if at all possible. At 9000 RPM with a 4-cylinder engine, there are 300 cylinder firings per second. Even if someone feels or hears detonation at that engine speed, it is very likely too late to prevent some kind of damage/destruction.
Hope this helps.
From: Norman Adams [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 9:25 PM
Subject: Fwd: Motor oil
This is a very long read but somewhat interesting. I've always thought a 0w-30 would always be the perfect oil for my street cars. Unfortunately it's very hard to find and usually it's only Mobil 1. I believe the 10 pounds pressure per 1000 rpm's is proper. It takes a little while to absorb all the details, this guy talks about and I'll never drive a Fiat/Ferrari like he does. I found some of his conclusions worthwhile.
On another oil related issue. I have some dry lakes racing friends who race Mazda engines with gearotor crank driven oil pumps. They are actually breaking the gears in the pump. Do you know if heavy duty parts are available? These engines are 1.6 liter, some de stroked to 1.5 liter, turbo charged.
Also another anomaly about this engine is the fuel pump. Because the engines are fuel injected he uses an external electric pump rated to 700 HP. But it turns out that fuel pumps are rated only for naturally aspirated engines. When this engine broke it's oil pump one of the cylinders went lean. The piston did not stick, but instead the head gasket blew out the side of the engine. Do you now if there are fuel pumps for blown engines which do not have reduced output under boost?
From: RWaldbaum <RWaldbaum@aol.com>
To: nadams1053 <email@example.com>
Sent: Fri, Sep 27, 2013 9:37 pm
Subject: Motor oil
What do you think of this guy's explanation of correct viscosity for various applications?
FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)