Date registered: May 2013
Vehicle: 1961 190SL
Location: Northern California, USA
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
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"Any wiring diagrams on how you did it? Like what resistors and where to install them. Sorry, it's my first points car."
There is nothing wrong with the function of points. Electronic ignition was introduced in the early 1970s because of laws requiring that emissions systems be maintanence free for 50K miles. Points can't live up to that.
I still have a 1971 Dodge van that I bought new, the last year of point ignitions. For many years one of my racing buddies who was the sales manager for Allison ignitions (later acquired by Crane Cams) bugged me to buy one of his electronic ignition conversions, but I wasn't interested because the points were working fine.
Finally, in a moment of frustration, he GAVE me an Allison conversion. At the next off road motorcycle race he asked me "Have you noticed how much easier it starts and how much better it runs?" Honest one word answer: "No".
Now, decades later after the 3 Allison conversions he gave have all failed and gone to the landfill, a set of ignition points is back in the distributor and working great.
Here's how well points work: I have 2 restored Bultaco motorcycles, one with original point ignition and one with factory Motoplat electronic ignition. Turning the point ignition magneto flywheel by hand (not with the kick start lever) produces a hot spark at the plug. The electronic ignition can't even begin to match that power output at really low engine speed. That translates to excellent starting.
For those who are attracted to gadgets, electronic ignition conversions scratch the itch. For those of us who appreciate old school reliability and longevity points work fine.