1965 220SE No Start - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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1965 220SE No Start

Hi, a friend has a 1965 220SE Coupe that hadn't run in several years. Put in new plugs, points, cap, rotor, coil, OEM wires, cleaned the fuel tank. The car started, but ran rough and rich. Cleaned the cold start valve so it quit leaking fuel into the intake, it ran better, but not well. After setting the timing, it would idle ok, but not rev up. While I was checking the timing, my friend unscrewed the spring loaded knurled knob at the rear of the injector pump, the car died, and now it will only start sporadically, and run really rough, or not start at all, and when I pull the injector line, fuel just oozes out of the line, like there is no pressure. I pulled the fuel line to the cold start valve, and gas shoots out of there. It's acting like it's not getting fuel. What I can find about the injection says "NEVER" turn that knurled knob, my friend is like "oh it can't hurt anything". Well, it won't run now, and I can't find anything about resetting the position of that little knob. So how scr*wed are we, or is this something minor? I don't know much about this mechanical fuel injection, so any help, or a guide to a "Mercedes Fuel Injection for Dummies" page would be appreciated.

Update: I pulled the plugs, they were fouled black, replaced them with clean plugs, and the car started, setting the timing at 0 degrees, but the timing only advances about 5 degrees when I try to rev the car up, I understand it should go to 30 degrees at 3000 RPM? I pulled the distributor to send it to have tested. The car idles fairly well now, but I'm still wondering about that knurled knob on the back of the fuel pump. Distribtor numbers are 0281 185 008 JFU6. I can't find much information about this distributor, is this the correct distributor? Thanks in advanc.

Last edited by rogueinla; 09-13-2013 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Upate
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 03:36 AM
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Lube the dist under rotor and from the side cap that says oel.weights may be binding.spray.
For reliability and perfect starts do install. Pertronicx ignitor and do. Away with the points.simple two wire install.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 06:29 PM
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timing is most likely not advancing cause its running too rich to get the revs up

check the dwell to make sure the points are still good

set the timing to 5 before at idle and then get your mixture right before you mess with it again. don't change the points now, one problem at a time.

Do make sure the weights in the dist. are moving freely.

the knob in the back of the FI pump is the rich/lean adjustment for the FI pump. Yes, as you found out it should only be adjusted with the engine off and then only a couple clicks at a time.

if you got it back in, and the detents are still working, meaning you didnt strip it when you took it out running, consider yourself very lucky. now you need to establish a baseline enrichment for the pump.

Do it like a carb, get it idling while rich and slowly (turning motor off each time) lean it out until it stumbles , then back it in rich again until it runs right. there's a procedure for setting the baseline adjustment but I don't know it, you normally would not do this in service, this is more of a pump rebuild operation. Perhaps others will know how to set the FI pump up properly
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 05:10 AM
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Hi, re start, unfortunately your friend has totally messed up the idle mixture adjustment which is in the governor, these should not be adjusted or touched while engine is RUNNING. May have to remove pump and setup on pump test bench, my dad had similar situation many years ago have to ask how he got around it without pump removal!
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