1975 Mercedes 300d wheel well rust question - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 12:38 PM
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Looking at the first photo, there's a lot of rust in the front part of the wheel well. Mine didn't look that bad, but when I got under it, I put my finger up through the floor under the passenger seat and the driver's seat was connected to the car by 2 of the 4 points. I ordered 2 floor panels from Mill Supply, Inc. and am quite happy with them. link. They also have quarter panels. My wheel wells and rocker panels were still good enough to cut out the bad stuff and put sheet metal in. Seriously, get under there with a screw driver and TRY to poke holes in it. The last you want is a Fred Flintstone experience.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the latest, I took the car to an autobody shop and he quoted me 1600 for the repair, which is way more than I paid for the car. He was going to use used wings that he found somewhere. I am 24, and I have a truck that I use the majority of the time. I have decided that I will only use this car on sunny days and I will store it this winter.

I really like those mill pannels! Does anyone know what I should expect to pay to have these installed? (no painting)

I am not looking for a show quality restoration here.. a 10 yarder is fine for my purposes. I just dont like the huge obvious rust on the wings now. I would consider just cutting up to the seam (About 4 inches from the bottom, and then wire brushing) the wings are only rotted for about 3.5 inches upfrom the bottom. after that the metal from behind is solid.

Also: I did get under the car to poke around.. the floor panels are all solid. The trunk has a little pit of rust, but nothing too serious, or that would cause me any worry.

Last edited by Johnny300; 07-23-2013 at 02:27 PM. Reason: didnt see previous reply
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 07:20 PM
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I suspect the water that caused this rust came from the trunk. Typical on this car is the rear window seals leak after years in the sun (so does the front but that water winds up under the carpets). Also tail lights and trunk seal. Water in the trunk flows to the sides where there is a pocket and out two very small holes right where all your rust is. The holes probably got clogged and rust never sleeps.

1600 sounds fair for both sides. Don't be afraid to spend that much if it is the only problem. Look around - what could you sell it for if it were fixed? But be sure to stop new water from getting in.

Good luck




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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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any suggestions for DIY seals?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny300 View Post
any suggestions for DIY seals?
Boy you are cheap :-) Normally you'd have a glass shop replace it with new seals - you can still get new ones. And you might want to have the headliner replaced then too. If the rubber seal has a chrome strip embedded in it do not try to remove the window yourself - it is quite difficult.

But don't worry, you can cheap out quite successfully on the windows. You can buy black silicon calk like substance specifically for resealing your automobile windows at most any auto parts store. It comes in a tube and you take a putty knife or equivalent to clean out the space between seal and glass and the space between the seal and car then to hold the seal back while you lay down a thin bead where the seal is no longer water tight.

Do you have a sun roof? They can also leak and they are supposed to drain by the back doors but they can also leak into the trunk especially if you have an electric sunroof.

Good luck.

PS according to Vehicle Price Guides | Hemmings Motor News

your car - 1975 Mercedes-Benz 240D 4dr Sedan is worth (actually with that rust it is probably considered "poor" condition - which they do not price) So if you fix the rust you got a bargain assuming the rest is in "fair" or better condition.

Fair
$3,400
Good
$7,600
Excellent
$10,500
Concours
$14,700

Condition 4: Fair
#4 cars are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the fender has a minor dent. The interior could have split seams or a cracked dash. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or the interior might not be stock. No major customizations have been made. A #4 car can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 car.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny300 View Post
any suggestions for DIY seals?

<sigh> Yes, if you promise not to tell anyone I gave helpful advice toward the preservation of a diesel powered Benz

Go to Lowes, Target, Walmart, Ace Hardware, etc, and find black colored sealant, either the type for bathrooms, or any kind used where water is a factor. Using a small putty knife or an assistant, gently pull up the seal and put a small bead of the stuff as close to the end of the glass as possible such that when the seal goes back down, the sealant doesn't squeeze out and make a mess.

Gently press the seal to ensure the sealant mates the window to the seal. If any sealant squeezes out, don't worry - use a razor blade to scrape off excess.

You can do this outside the car, where getting access to the seal is easy, or inside the car where cleanup is more difficult, but the job easier to hide.

This is something I did with my 108, where the fix lasted literally years, until I replaced front and back seals as a matter of cosmetics (the dry rot was getting pretty advanced).

The best bet is to replace the seals and have done with it, but the cost of the seals ranges up to $500 for the two (and I'm being conservative) for OEM/OEM-quality, and whatever an installer charges per hour to do the job ($100 per is a good starting estimate).

Cost for a tube of sealant: $8 or so, plus your own time needed to accomplish the job.

I'll post another thread on how to check for a bad seal.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 06:12 AM
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[QUOTE=Grubeguy;5876542I'll post another thread on how to check for a bad seal.[/QUOTE]

Rust in the rear area may or may not be caused by bad glass seals. A quick and simple check to verify their efficacy is:

-use a garden hose and an assistant. Station yourself inside the car, where you have direct sight of the seal
-with the garden hose on a slow trickle, continuously pour water onto the seal, starting on one of the lower corners. You will watch for water intrusion into the car at all times
-have the assistant move the water trickly slowly from one lower corner to the opposite lower corner while you watch for water intrusion.
-have the assistant move the water trickly slowly up the seal while you watch for intrusion.

Bottom line, you will watch for water intrusion as the assistant moves the water trickly around the entire seal. It's important to start low and finish high, in order to find the correct source of the leak.

Note that you might indeed have a good seal, but a bad lip, where the seal attaches the window to the metal. I've seen instances where that lip has rusted, allowing water intrusion.

Also, with the trunk open, allow small amounts of water to run through the drain gunnels such that it doesn't splash into the trunk. Check for leaks.

If your trunk is bone dry and you have no leaks, your rusty back quarter could be caused by normal wear and tear, age, etc. Our old beasts are known for rust in common places, such as where yours is. My 108 had significant rust issues that I ended up cutting out and replacing with stuff I welded in...
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