114 won't start! - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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114 won't start!

I have tried everything. I changed the ignition coil. Set the gap. Checked every wire. Made sure its getting gas. I'm at a complete loss. Any help is appreciated because this car is my daily and I kind of need it...

1974 280

2001 Lexus IS300
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:42 PM
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What changed? It worked fine and now doesn't
What were the symptoms before started to fail


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 74benzo View Post
I have tried everything. I changed the ignition coil. Set the gap. Checked every wire. Made sure its getting gas. I'm at a complete loss. Any help is appreciated because this car is my daily and I kind of need it...
So are you saying you're not getting any spark?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 12:56 PM
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you are short on details .if you remove coil wire from cap and hold it next to head , crank , do you have a spark ??? . if you have , do same test at a plug wire , do you also have spark ???? . to test cars , i use a KV meter , and a can of starting fluid .
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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So are you saying you're not getting any spark?
Yeah I'm getting no spark from it.

1974 280

2001 Lexus IS300
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 03:11 PM
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Possibly the Ignition Control Modual. Mine went out on me and instead of buying a new one, I installed a HotSpark electronic ignition and that bypassed the mercedes ignition control modual which is located under the battery tray to the front of the vehicle. I'm not really sure if there is a way to test it, I just took the chance on the HotSpark for $60 u.s. and a new ignition coil that was compatable $70 u.s. It has been running fantastic ever since.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 08:18 PM
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Whip out a multimeter and check the coil to see if it's getting juice.

Might not be a bad time to upgrade to electronic ignition Mercedes-Benz
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 09:23 PM
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use a voltmeter , this is the MB way to test .key on , pointes closed , at coil , term 15 3.6 to 4.6 volts , at term 1 0.7to1.5 volts . pointes resistance max 0.3 volt [ remove distr cap , and measure from ground of distr to the wire that goes to the mobile contact ] now rotate engine to open pointes , now , you have 12 volts every where . with pointes open , you have 12v at both ballasts and coil . with key on , pointes open , the open contact with wire attached to has 12v , with pointes closed , you have a MAX of .3 v. start at this test first
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 08:37 AM
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74benzo,

It may not seem so at the moment, but a dead ignition system is easier to diagnose than one that malfunctions intermittently. My amateur way of diagnosing your problem is to verify that the coil is receiving battery voltage when the ignition is "on" using a test light or multimeter. If that is happening you can pull the coil to distributor high voltage wire and place its distributor end close to a metal part of the engine then manually open and close the points while the ignition is "on". At the instant the points open the coil loses its ground and there should be a spark. If that is not happening either the coil is bad or the points are not grounding the coil when closed. It's a process of emimination that is vastly easier with point ignition than with electronic ignition.

Electrical gremlins are always frustrating because the flow of electrons is not something we can see.

Ray W
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 08:50 AM
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The opening of the points method comes with a caveat. If you use a metal screwdriver to open the points be sure the blade is not touching any of the metal of the engine as it will create the same continuity you are trying to break.
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