W114 Carbs\engine problem - Page 9 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #81 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 03:12 PM
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The sync tool looks like this.
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Top five reasons I posted in your topic:

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2. I just have a general dislike of you.

3. I am trying to tell you how to fix your Mercedes and you are not listening.

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5. You're just to dumb to own a Mercedes, and should go buy a Honda.
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post #82 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 04:36 PM
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Lets not forget too, on the 2+2 setups the carbs had to be perfectly tuned.
And THAT, good sirs, is the Lord's honest truth!

If your carbs are not sync'ed then I don't care what you do to timing, valve adjustments, cam timing offsets or any other hoo-doo you wanna try, your engine WILL run like poo-poo.

I modified my M115 to run on an aftermarket fuel injection system because I got tired of fiddling with the twin down draft Solex'es it originally had.
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post #83 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 05:56 PM
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the 4 deg ATDC, was a smog issue , it did use a retard vacuum box on the distributor and some electrical solenoids to activate .it is rare to find a car that has those solenoid that work .so , what you do , is not using the vacuum retard , and time car to 5 to 10 BTDC .the engine will idle much better .use timing specs for a older 250s .[ 67 or so ].
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post #84 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Do I remove the vacuum lines from the distributor or leave them there?


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post #85 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 09:24 PM
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Euro models did not have this bit of smog add on ; the engines run very smooth and briskly .
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post #86 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 12:25 PM
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Update On my timing. I removed the retard vaccum to the distributer and adjusted the timing by ear. (i need to buy a new timing light) There was a slight but noticeable difference in power. The engine is more responsive and happier now.

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post #87 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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More info thanks to Mark.
My vacuum lines are little bit confusing. The carb vacuum line instead of going to the valve just goes directly to the second carb. The distributor vacuum top connection line goes directly to the lower connection.

Disconnecting the lines does make a difference on the engine idling

Why would anyone set the vacuum lines like this? Is it because the valves don't work and they managed to "bypass" the problem? How can I check if the valves are working?

I think this has to do with the engine not working properly

Thank you



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post #88 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 06:32 PM
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Take some pictures please.

Top five reasons I posted in your topic:

1. You're talking about god, there has never been any god of any kind. EVER!

2. I just have a general dislike of you.

3. I am trying to tell you how to fix your Mercedes and you are not listening.

4. I'm flirting with Jody.

5. You're just to dumb to own a Mercedes, and should go buy a Honda.
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post #89 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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ok, here are some pictures with explanations.
Basically i have now the lines connected as per Mark's suggestion excluding the emission line at the bottom of the distributor, that is now plugged.

The car works much better and i can "feel" the engine but still not there as now probably needs timing adjusted again which i don't want to do until i get the air filters and the air flow gauge.

i am completely puzzled why would someone connected the lines like this.
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Last edited by kavadarci; 05-12-2013 at 09:06 PM.
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post #90 of 93 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kavadarci View Post
ok, here are some pictures with explanations.

Basically i have now the lines connected as per Mark's suggestion excluding the emission line at the bottom of the distributor, that is now plugged.

this.
When you say "excluding the emission line at the bottom of the distributor" is this what you are refering to? (see photo)

If so, this is to retard the timing, mine is now disconnected and plugged with a rubber cap.

In the first photo, is the vacuum pipe that is connected to the dashpot going into the vacuum on the bottom of the front carb?
If so, then someone just bypassed the two way valve, and that should work.
(Mine is currently going through the two way valve)

In the second photo, you CAN bypass the three way valve and hook one of the carbs vacuums into the top (advance) of the distributor.
That is how mine is currently connected.

As per testing the two and three way valves, I have no idea how to do that. We need some expert advice on this one please.
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Last edited by Luna Gaudi's 72 250; 05-12-2013 at 10:05 PM.
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