w108 motor mounts - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 06:40 PM
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Date registered: Jan 2011
Vehicle: 1969 280 SE Convertible
Location: Central California
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Motor mounts

w108 motor mounts-image.jpg
Here is a diagram of the engine mounts for a 1969 280 SE
I did one side at a time.
I also changed the rear transmission mount also.
These were difficult to install.
I removed the rear transmission mount and installed a jack with a block of wood under the engine pan.
I loosened the engine fan shrouds.
A good struggle, I finally got the mounts to align.
I also changed the front suspension sub frame bushings.
I believe all of these bushings need to be changed to place the car back to original specifications.
Good luck
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 06:43 PM
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Additional pictures

w108 motor mounts-image.jpg

Pictures of worn out engine /transmission mounts
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 1970 280 sel, 1979 300sd, 1988 300sel
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The engine with support arms are one width that cannot change. The only chance I have to align the motor mounts to the support arms is to shift over or move the rubber part of the fixed motor mount. I'm going to try to swap the motor mounts from one side to the other just to see if I can gain 1/4 inch on both sides. Thats my only chance to see if maybe the motor mounts are not perfectly square, symmetrical or exact, and therefor I can gain a few mm here and there. I hope I'm explaining myself. As for the diagram, I don't see motor mounts. Please advise
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 08:55 AM
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push the engine over with a large crow bar , or floor jack handle , start bolt , do other side .depending where your problem lies , loosening the rear trans mount cross over plate might help .i hata to say this , but in difficult case [ lack of access , i just taper the end of bolts , then tap them in with hammer , and screw in [ never stripped one yet ]+
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Spent 2 hours on the drivers side motor mount an finally got it in. Had to loosen both allen bolts that hold the motor mount almost all the way out. After lowering and lifting the engine 10 plus times while at the same time using a large screw driver on my right hand to align the holes and then also using my left hand to turn the floor jack handle at the same time. I looked like a stretched out man using every part of my body and at times looking like I'm doing jumping jacks. Oh, and that was the easy side where I only had to shift about 1/4 inch. Now comes the passenger side that needs to somehow shift 1 inch. There I will have to use "agillot" method of using a large crow bar. At least I will have better leverage on the passenger side. The driver side is hard, no leverage, no room for crow bar really without removing many parts. Any tips on shifting the engine over 1 inch? I only have two legs and two arms to help.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 02:25 PM
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Subframe Mounts

w108 motor mounts-image.jpg

Check your subframe bushings.
By the looks of your motor mounts, these bushings need to be replaced also.
This will properly orientate the motor mounts correctly.
The motor mounts on theses MBZ are located on this subframe.
Again make sure to check the rear transmission/engine mounts.
Note: you will probably have to adjust the radiator fan shroud because the new mounts have now raised the engine.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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I just want to install the last motor mount and take a break. Don't the motor mounts sit on the same frame. So what I picture is the metal of the motor mounts being fixed and the rubber part is what shifts and moves. I'm trying to picture the whole thing but I might not be getting it. I've worked on my honda and chevy suspension without problems but this car is something else. I have to deal with king pins, subframe mounts and a bunch of other stuff that I have never worked on. My w116 motor mount replacement was a breeze compared to this car. I have to move the engine about 1 inch. I might have to loosen the drivers motor mount allen bolts again, loosen the passenger motor mount allen bolts and try to take away 1/2 inch from one side to gain 1/2 inch on the opposite side. Eventually after all that forcing you would think that one of the motor mounts would just tear apart. Pleeeeeaaaase advise
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 04:18 PM
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Welcome to MBZ

These cars were incredible complex and advance for their time of production
1960's
Please have patience, do your research before attempting projects.
Do you have a MBZ service manual?
I purchased mine on EBay.
They are essential to understand the complexities of these cars.
Since you are attempting the motor mounts, wait till you change the sub frame bushings. They are also difficult to change.
It is important to understand the relationship of these suspension parts.
Wait til you work on the drive line and rear suspension.
These forums have a lot of info, take time and investigate.
The final results are always satisfying w108 motor mounts-image.jpg
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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No MBZ manual. I once looked at a Haynes manual that had terrible pictures and complicated steps to remove the most simplest of parts. I'm sure the MBZ manual is much better. Where do I get one? I'm sure it only gets more complicated when working at the rear suspension, I believe you. Nothing has been easy to work on this car. The heater levers took me more than 4 hours to replace and I actually had to use mirrors. The alternator belt became a complicated project also. I had to use a shovel to balance myself on it to get better leverage. Wish I would of video recorded that one. The spark plug project became a nightmare when I crossed threaded 3 plug holes. All because I used that German spark plug tool that came with the car. I learned how to use Time-Sert and repaired all three spark plug holes and are now better than factory. I think I better get that MBZ manual before I attempt to replace that rear right wheel bearing. To make things even more comical. I just noticed that the upper radiator hose is mm's from the belt pulley and fan...
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2013, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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You got one hell of a good looking benz, congratulations.
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