Drove to mechanic, may have to tow home! - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Drove to mechanic, may have to tow home!

Well, I'll start at the beginning, My 67 250 se needed three things 1, rear exhaust manifold replaced 2, points and timing adjustment 3, valve adjustment. I had all of the parts except for the points/ plus I purchased a new battery. long story short after all was done the car starts and idles excellent(better than before), but as soon as you hit the throttle it stalls. every time you hit the throttle even a little it stalls. two things that happened while there, 1 it ran out of gas, 2 the main ground to the engine has pulled out of the connector (and they replaced it with a smaller ground wire to the valve cover bolt). I will replace the fuel filter in the morning but I dont think that is the problem.

Can you guys suggest anything that might cause this problem (wrong point/ bad coil/ distributer in wrong/bad ground) I'm kinda stumped. Anyone heard of this? thanks for looking.

Last edited by ktmripper; 04-10-2013 at 08:11 AM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 09:33 PM
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Better have your co-pilot/assistant check her notes and see who messed up!

She's a cutie! Must have distracted the boys at the shop from concentrating on your car!

I would suspect an inadequate size ground and/or connection. Clean away paint to bare steel at both ends of new heavy duty ground to handle load of revving engine.

Good Luck
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-26-2013, 06:06 PM
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If your car has the dual Zenith carbs, It might be possible that the shop could have been messing with the idle screws. Mine were off and I had the same symptoms. It would start and idle great, but once I would hit the accelerator, the engine would die. I didn't have a carburator sync tool so through trial and error adjustments, I think I pretty much have it dialed in now. It's worth looking into.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 01:31 AM
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I would check points and timing again,did it run ok before this was done?

John
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 06:35 AM
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If he grounded it to the valve cover itself, I think they're all aluminum, you may not be getting a good ground. Have you tried moving the ground wire or adding another?
Klaus
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kdjones99 View Post
If he grounded it to the valve cover itself, I think they're all aluminum, you may not be getting a good ground. Have you tried moving the ground wire or adding another?
Klaus
Thats kinda what I thought. It may only be grounded to the threads under the valve cover. That makes sense that there may not be enough ground to ground out the engine when revving. I will build a 1/0 heavy duty ground cable in a few hours. I will also find a good bolt on the block to ground to. This car has been rock solid for the last 4 years so I hesitate to think it is something major.

my mech swears up and down he did not touch the IP.

Thanks for the advice.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 11:08 PM
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I'm not an expert with electrical systems but I know many people add an additional ground from the distributor (mine has this too) tho I can't suggest if this will help in this instance, just wanted to trigger a possible solution if someone else can offer a more informed opinion.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013, 03:03 PM
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It sounds like the carbs needs cleaning or at the least replacing the accelerator pumps on them. This is what squirts a bit of gas into the carbs when you press the pedal down. They feed the engine just enough gas to keep it from stalling.dying, until the main jets take over.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ruled out the ground as the problem.
it seems the injection pump is supplying no fuel to the injectors, and the car is only running on the gas from the cold start valve. This is said to have first started when the car ran out of gas. I did not think running out of gas would damage a good IP. Can an IP trap air? Both fuel filters are clean, and the rear pump is supplying lots of pressure. I'm thinking of trying to flush it out (with wd-40 and air). But it surprises me than it just stopped.

this IP was rebuilt about 4 years ago and only has maybe 7-10 thousand miles on it (my odometer does not work).


Can any one make any suggestions on an injection pump that seems to have just stopped pumping fuel? Thanks again.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 11:47 AM
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be specific , there is no such a thing as a 67 250 , it is either a 250s or a 250se , it would be nice to know .
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