w111 220b clutch and thermostat problem - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-21-2013, 08:01 PM
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change ALL your flexible hoses, coolant, fuel, brake/clutch etc.

After all that time, the fluid will have swelled the inside of the brake/clutch hoses and you may find once you get the brakes working they will not release. also it will suck up bits of old hose into your nice new brake components.

absolutely drop the filter out of the tank, the big hex bolt. As others have stated, there is almost certainly a layer of fine rust on the bottom of the tank. Get it re-lined before you run the car or you will damage your fuel pump/carbs.

good luck!
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the answers
today i fitted the brake master cylinder and now the brake pedal feels normal but i am not sure about the brakes...i tried to get the clutch disks unstuck by putting 1st and turned the ignition couple of times put unfortunately with no luck it got shack,now i can't shift back to neutral Any ideas?

Last edited by abril; 02-23-2013 at 04:47 PM.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 05:54 PM
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jack up the rear wheels to relieve tension , if the engine run , let it warm up , and try again the clutch trick , you should get lucky . see if slave cylinder moves when you push on clutch .
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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(It have shuck in 1st gear) ,should i start it with the rear end raised and pressing the clutch pedal repeatedly?But i am not sure where should i place the tripods in order to prevent any damage to the floor?Also ebay sellers sell the 87 degrees celsius thermostats for the M127 2.2L engine and the 75 one for larger engines.I got mine unstuck(it was probably never changed since it was purchased) and i tested it in water and i noticed that it opens just before boiling point.I would probably fit it and see how it goes or it isn't a good idea?
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2013, 08:48 PM
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Just some notes: fuel tank has a filter inside (center of tank), you can see it with tank drained. It'll usually protect the system, but you should look at it, and if looks "dented" or covered in brownish coating, replace to save major problems. If you can see a hole in it, DON'T run the car until fixed. Also, wheel cyl bleed screws on this car bind under these conditions, and you can easily break. Don't put too much pressure - better to spend the time to disassemble and free with solvent inside and light tapping outside. They are not cheap to buy these days. Master cyl is a simple old lump and cleaning and slight wipe-out with 2000 grit carborundum paper, new rubber, will fix anything. I'm sure the clutch will free up but if not, new clutch (name brand US, but not Mercedes orig part, please) is proabably cheapest major repair you can have done - no more than a Chevy pick-up of the same vintage. Good luck!
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