clutch all the way on floor, unable to shift - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy clutch all the way on floor, unable to shift

newbie here with perplexing problem....1979 300td wagon, 5 speed....so im driving down the road and the clutch goes flat, no pressure, and cant shift...finally got it in reverse and drove home backwards...not kidding. Turned off car and got my head back together. I had no previous problems with car...started her up again and she drove the 30 miles to work, no problems. At end of day was driving her home and got stuck again in 2nd...got home and husband said maybe slave cylinder and changed it out. Major bleeding problems...took forever...and clutch still flat and unable to engage gears. Would someone PLEASE offer advice? Airbound? How to correct? THANK YOU!!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 10:16 AM
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whenever replacing parts in a hydraulic clutch system make sure to bench bleed before installing. Better results will be encountered and much time will be saved. It does sound like a hydraulic issue.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 10:38 AM
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Search for the oil can method, basically you get an old fashioned oil can (clean and pref new) and fill it with brake fluid. Attach a rubber hose and the other end of the hose to the bleed nipple, then pump the oil can so it pushes fluid up the pipe and the air comes out of the top.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-30-2013, 01:22 PM
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I take a long piece of hose conect one end to the drivers front brake calipe bleeder and one end to the slave cyl
Then you just open both nipples pump the brakes and it will bleed through
It could also be the master cyl
Or the rubber hose between the two may have lost its integrity and may be swelling...

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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still having bleeding problems...HELP

Thank you so much to all who responded...what is a bench bleed? We found and used the oil can method...fluid came up great at first, with some air bubbles, but then stopped coming up??? A bubble appeared in the hose from the oil can, (assuming good hydrolic pressure), but no fluid coming up in resevoir...changed clutch master cylinder and supply hose (in case of blockage and clutch master cylinder being bad) and still same thing. No fluid any longer coming up in resevoir, but pressure bubble still forming in hose from oil can to slave cylinder. Hydrolic fluid reaches in reverse to master, but fluid will not go all way through...what are we missing???? could there be a blockage somewhere (where)??? Need some advice from u experts or other out there...help!!!xxx
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 06:00 PM
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no need to bench bleed , but usally when the pedal stick to the floor it is the master cylinder under dash . use the oil can method , you will push the air up , it works perfect .you bleed from the bottom .the reservoir will fill , and you are done .
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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we did it and it was working great and then fluid stopped coming up...changed master and still same thing?????
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 09:36 PM
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Bench bleeding is simply bleeding the air(with the necessary fluid) out of the unit to be installed on the bench(work bench) before you bolt it into the vehicle. This gives you less air in the system to bleed out. With some systems if you don't bench bleed you will fuss with it forever and still have air in the system. Been there done it

Sounds like your master cylinder is the issue. but I'm not an expert. just speaking from past experience.

Last edited by helleifenbein; 01-31-2013 at 09:46 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-18-2014, 06:45 PM
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My 280 sl 5 speed has been doing the same thing. If I hook the pedal with my shoe and lift it back up it will work. I've started driving with my foot under the pedal to catch it. Today I played with it and if I wiggle the pedal it actually sucks down to the floor until I lift it back up. I ran a bungee chord around the heater duct and hooked the ends to the pedal arm for a return spring until I find a solution. It's working well.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 02:22 AM
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Once you remove all parts of hydraulic system it leaves the pressure plate. If it slips a lot it can get raised spots or I have seen the fingers on spring break off. (Not sure of that applies to this model, mores clutches in general)
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