1967 230S Vacuum Problem?? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 1967 Mercedes Benz 230S
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1967 230S Vacuum Problem??

Thank you in advance for looking. I'm new to this.

I have a 1967 230S fintail with, I think, a vacuum problem.

When the engine is cold, all is fine. When the engine warms up, the problem starts.

I can be in park and increase the RPMs fine.

When I put on the brakes OR put it in a gear, it dies.

I seem to have a good vacuum when I unhook the vacuum hose from the brake booster. I have adjusted the idle speed, checked the timing, rebuilt the Zenith carbs. No luck.

I would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 06:47 PM
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try setting the ignition timing at 5 to 10 deg btdcwith car in gear , if distributor advance curb is worn , you will have this problem ,
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-21-2013, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agillot View Post
try setting the ignition timing at 5 to 10 deg btdcwith car in gear , if distributor advance curb is worn , you will have this problem ,
as advised above at 10 BTDC the engine will also be more responsive with a smooth idle.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you to both of you.

I will try that when I get a chance, probably on Feb 9.

I will update this afterward.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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For those who have responded, I just have not had a chance to work on it. I will update when I have done it. Thanks.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, as promised,although much later than I had hoped, an update.

I set the timing as suggested. But it did not help.

After much head scratching, I wonder if I found the problem. I am not sure what I am looking at but ... seemingly between the dual Zenith carbs and the exhaust manifolds sit two large (perhaps 1 1/2 inch diameter) circles with rotate. One does. One does not.

One is missing a coil on the opposite side. The other one (the one that is stuck) has the coil but maybe is not hooked right??

It seems to me these coils would expand when warm and open or close a valve. Perhaps this makes sense to someone. I cannot find these structures in my AUTOBOOK repair manual.

Thank you for reading this.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 10:47 PM
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warm up-flaps :these are the heat raisers,now best operated in their closed position so the engine will not overfuel nor overheat and warp the carbs.
Likely cause of your warm running problems in the open position
Adler
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-25-2013, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks.

The heat risers are in the exhaust manifold. One now seems fine after finding a thermal coil and replacing it.

The other is rusted open. I am having trouble getting the exhaust manifold off.

The bolts that hold the exhaust manifold on seem to have a pin in them ?? A rivet nut or something? I am having no luck getting them off. Ideas?

Thank you in advance.

Doug
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-25-2013, 06:06 PM
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I would leave the heat raiser in the closed position if its seized in that state.
Quite troublesome if stuck in the open position as all heat gets directed to base of carbs and they warp.






[QUOTE=Douglasent;5795499]Thanks.

The heat risers are in the exhaust manifold. One now seems fine after finding a thermal coil and replacing it.

The other is rusted open. I am having trouble getting the exhaust manifold off.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Update.

After removing essentially everything on the right (passenger)side of the engine, including the entire exhaust system, I have removed the intake pipe with the two exhaust manifolds. The front exhaust manifold does have a stuck heat riser and I am working to release it.

A few things I wish I would have known:

1) The intake pipe and exhaust manifolds cannot be removed piecemeal. They will come out only together. Do not waste hours like I did trying to remove the 8 nuts that hold them together.

2) the entire exhaust system will need to come out first. I could not find a way to avoid that.

3) I had to cut through bolts to separate the exhaust manifolds from the intake pipe. It seems they will be easily replaceable as they are just automotive bolts. I hope I am right about that.

I will keep updating as I slowly go for the person who may be in the same situation.

Thanks.
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