Date registered: Jul 2012
Vehicle: 1967 250S, twin Weber carbs, automatic trans, power windows, A/C, R134a conversion
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Sounds like a great price you were quoted. Karps rebuild service was very prompt with a 5 day turn-around. Jeff called me to ask a few questions and then rebuilt it quickly. Other rebuilders referred me to Karps upon learing about the type of booster I have on the 1967 250S MBZ. I installed the unit last evening but delayed starting the motor until I find the rubber gasket that seals the vacuum hose connector to the booster. I don't know how I misplaced it but will try using an O-ring to do the job. I'm also looking for the rubber isolator that attaches the air filter housing bolt (1 of 3 bolts) to the frame. Without it the droning noise is irritating around 50 mph.
With the money I saved by rebuilding the power steering box a few weeks ago I installed new shocks, tie-rods, and sub-frame connectors. I'm looking forward to getting the car back on the road. Next task....install new rear-end pinion seal. This leak produces a good mess on the axel housing and concrete driveway surface below.
Heads-up: I also sprayed the front wheel-well areas with rust converter and underbody sealer. Why you say??? The W108 does not have wheel-well inserts thus allowing water to get in behind the headlight assembly. As a result the upper forward portion of the fender will eventually rust out. I remember seeing a few examples of this rust problem on photo's supplied by online members. The undersealer in this area on my car had peeled off and the metal was starting to rust. Also note that the area at the bottom of the doors rusts big time and these too should be treated with a rust converter and then sealed. If you go to the expense of correcting this problem, add to your parts list a pair of rubber wire protectors for the headlight assembly. These are usually cracked thus inviting the deterioration of the insulation on the wires serving the headlight assembly.