W108: Brake Booster Rebuild.....AGAIN! - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 1967 250S, twin Weber carbs, automatic trans, power windows, A/C, R134a conversion
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W108: Brake Booster Rebuild.....AGAIN!

I just want to share my frustration....

Sent my booster for a rebuild to Cardone (via RockAuto services). The price was right and the unit was returned promptly. Got about three weeks service out of it (daily driver) and suddenly it stopped functioning. From the hissing noise when applying brakes I figured something was amiss. Returned the unit for repair under warranty. Unit was returned as non-rebuildable. No other info was provided. Hummmmm... sounds fishy to me.

I plan to discuss with Cardone. Not sure if these units are available new. I may have to try a repair shop on the west coast. AARRGH!!!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 04:22 PM
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from what i understand , there is a part in there that is not available , so sometime the fix dont work [ vacuum leak .]
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Cardone says they will refund the cost. Now sending the unit to KARPS (California) for a rebuild. I'll let you know about the service.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitaka View Post
Cardone says they will refund the cost. Now sending the unit to KARPS (California) for a rebuild. I'll let you know about the service.
Let me know how it goes with KARPS. I am taking my booster off today and was thinking of sending it to Power Brake Exchange to be rebuilt for $198.50. Home Page
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like a great price you were quoted. Karps rebuild service was very prompt with a 5 day turn-around. Jeff called me to ask a few questions and then rebuilt it quickly. Other rebuilders referred me to Karps upon learing about the type of booster I have on the 1967 250S MBZ. I installed the unit last evening but delayed starting the motor until I find the rubber gasket that seals the vacuum hose connector to the booster. I don't know how I misplaced it but will try using an O-ring to do the job. I'm also looking for the rubber isolator that attaches the air filter housing bolt (1 of 3 bolts) to the frame. Without it the droning noise is irritating around 50 mph.

With the money I saved by rebuilding the power steering box a few weeks ago I installed new shocks, tie-rods, and sub-frame connectors. I'm looking forward to getting the car back on the road. Next task....install new rear-end pinion seal. This leak produces a good mess on the axel housing and concrete driveway surface below.

Heads-up: I also sprayed the front wheel-well areas with rust converter and underbody sealer. Why you say??? The W108 does not have wheel-well inserts thus allowing water to get in behind the headlight assembly. As a result the upper forward portion of the fender will eventually rust out. I remember seeing a few examples of this rust problem on photo's supplied by online members. The undersealer in this area on my car had peeled off and the metal was starting to rust. Also note that the area at the bottom of the doors rusts big time and these too should be treated with a rust converter and then sealed. If you go to the expense of correcting this problem, add to your parts list a pair of rubber wire protectors for the headlight assembly. These are usually cracked thus inviting the deterioration of the insulation on the wires serving the headlight assembly.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-07-2013, 07:06 PM
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Re Heads Up:

One recurring source of rust on the top of the quarter panel is typically due to the headlight "door" tang scratching the finish during careless removal and reassembly. The tang and slot are a bit spring loaded, and inevitably a scratch occurs when the door is lifted off.

Not to say there aren't stone chips that occur on or from the bottom side, but one of the failings of the move to stacked sealed beams was the need to have a slot right next to the painted panel, vs set off a little on the alloy frame of the original lights. It isn't coincidence that the rusting there starts dead center, on the top edge...

You can also use 3M StoneGuard underneath, and on the panels that hide the aerial and vacuum collector.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 08:08 PM
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3M StoneGuard hmmmm, good idea try this.
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