1968 280 S smog pump removal - PROBLEM - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 08:16 AM
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get a bracket from junk yard and install pump like on a 67 car .
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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As for the capping, I removed the short fittings into the block and used six bolts into the head.
Did you happen to save the fittings? I would really like one for purposes of fabricating an attractive cap. Needless to say, the fittings are still in the block of my engine and I have no idea how to remove them. Or if you can tell me how to remove them without removing the engine, that would work too...
thanks
Scott

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 10:19 PM
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1968 280 S smog pump removal - PROBLEM

Hi Scott,
Sorry for the delay, just got back from vacation.
Here is a photo while rebuilding my engine.
There is room to access the fittings removal.
It might be a tight fit while in the engine compartment...
I did toss the fittings and replaced with short metric bolts.
-Charlie.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by charliehook View Post
Hi Scott,
Sorry for the delay, just got back from vacation.
Here is a photo while rebuilding my engine.
There is room to access the fittings removal.
It might be a tight fit while in the engine compartment...
I did toss the fittings and replaced with short metric bolts.
-Charlie.
If I'm understanding the photo correctly, the metric bolts are in place. Is that correct? My recollection of the fittings is that they have a male threaded flare fitting on them, but not any sort of thing to grab onto to remove them. Am I mistaken on this?
Thanks
Scott

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-04-2013, 07:22 AM
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1968 280 S smog pump removal - PROBLEM

Hi Scott,
Sorry I threw away the fittings.
They were male pipe thread on both sides with a hex outside for removal.
All my pix show that area so grimy you can't see the fitting...
After you remove the pipe manifold, you will be able to remove each fitting into the head with a socket.
-Charlie.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 07:29 AM
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Scoot, any chance you still have your old air pump? Mine makes a racket and I would like to find a replacement. I know I could remove it, but I like the stock config.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry, mine is long gone.

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-03-2014, 12:26 PM
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Scoot, any chance you still have your old air pump? Mine makes a racket and I would like to find a replacement. I know I could remove it, but I like the stock config.
The smog pump on my '68 250S started making huge rattling noises about a month ago. That lasted about 2 days then it seized. After looking unsuccessfully for a '67 bracket, I got tired of driving without the power steering and decided to just install a new smog pump.

O'Reilly has the best price by far on a reman pump I think I paid about $50 plus a $3 core charge. (What's up with that?)

It's a pain to get the old out and replace the new.

1. Make sure you take out the radiator! The long bolt is too long to get out of the bracket with it in place. It's also a good time to replace your auto transmission cooling lines if they are in bad shape. One of mine disintegrated in my hand. Who knows what was keeping it from exploding.

2. If you have a '68, your power steering reservoir is probably attached directly to the top of the pump. You'll need to disconnect the pressure line from the pump and the return line to the reservoir. Siphon out as much of the transmission fluid as you can with a turkey baster. A cheap plastic one is best. Steal it from your kitchen....just don't take it back inside. Buy your wife a better one. Again, this is a good time to replace those hoses if they are bad.

3. Remove the power steering pump. Keep it so that dirt cannot get into it.

4. Now you can get at the pump. Just remember which bolt goes where, and I think there's a spacer in there as well. Once the bolts are out, then it's like solving a Rubik's cube to actually get it out of the bracket. Persevere, and remember how you did because you have to put the new one in it's place.

5. Reassemble in reverse order, making sure to top off fluids. The power steering pump uses Type F transmission fluid. Once it is installed, fill the reservoir. Leave the cap off, and turn the wheels all the way left and right a coupe of times with the engine off. This will get fluid to almost all of the places it needs to be without cavitating the pump and spewing frothy transmission fluid all over the place. Trust me on this one.

Now that I've said all of that.....my new smog pump lasted precisely two days before it started making the sounds of imminent destruction again.

My recommendation is that you either buy the pump, and remove all of the insides using it essentially as an idler, or get a bracket where the power steering pump tension can be adjusted.

This time I was successful in locating a bracket. Just about any 6 cylinder in-line, carb engine will have the bracket you need. Mine came from a 250S, but a 280 S will work, as well as ome of the earlier models. Injected cars do not have what you need.

Either way, you'll need to deactivate all of the plumbing that went with that system. On the intake fitting, I sawed it off about 1.5" from the fitting, and had my neighbor weld the end shut. For now, I left the air manifold below the spark plugs installed and am temporarily using a simple rubber stopper from the hardware store. Make sure you plug the vacuum line that went from the base of the forward carb to the valve which you have removed.

If get a new bracket, I used a CarQuest 17330 ($5) or you can get a 9330 ($14). The 9330 is a muche better belt, but they didn't have any. I now carry a spare.

Hope this helps!

Jon
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-06-2014, 08:54 AM
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<<<I used a CarQuest 17330 ($5) or you can get a 9330 ($14).>>>

CORRECTION:

The correct belt would be a Gates 9325. The 9330 proved to be just a tad too long.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 09-09-2014, 09:56 AM
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your running problem has nothing to do with removing the air pump , since you have plugged the intake orifice .
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