Picked up the '64 220s - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 1973 450 SE (minor stuff to bring it up to par)
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Ok, so after some research it appears that it is a 1963 220S. It also seems that I can use the solex carbs on mine too. Thats good. I would like to know if it is better to get the zenith back on there though or if the solex are about the same?
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 08:32 PM
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Vehicle: 1981 300TD 310k--1966 230 165k--1970 280se 172k
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Someone retrofitted those Zeniths on your original car or the entire engine has been replaced at some time. That year and model should have Solexes on a 180.941 engine. The Zeniths were first installed in the 230 fintail on June 1966 around the same time they introduced the w108 which always had Zeniths on the S engine.

My understanding from reading all I could about these cars is that the Solexes are simpler to rebuild and easier to adjust. I rebuilt my Solexes and it was pretty straightforward. It is, however, reported that a well-sorted Zenith is a great carb and if you look at the specifications, the Zeniths do yield 15 more horsepower (on the 180.945 engine).

If you decide to go with the Solexes, you will also need to swap the intake manifold and air hood over. There may also be issues with the linkage and manual vs. automatic choke, although you should have everything you need on the parts car.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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you are correct. I pulled the carb and it does not fit. It's slightly different. That does suck.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:09 PM
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Vehicle: 1965 220S, 1999 Volvo V70 (wagon), 2006 Ford Crown Vic Police Interceptor, 72 350SL 4 Speed
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You can easily tell early chassis VS late, or 1st version vs 2nd version. Open the hood and look at the middle of the firewall above the engine. If there is a flap that you can open, it's a 1st version. Otherwise it's a 2nd version.

2nd version cars have a regular power booster, dual circuit front disc brakes. There are also minor front suspension differences.

1st version have drum brakes and no remote brake booster or front disc with a remote brake booster.

The service manual refers to the versions.

My 1965 220S is a second version.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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My '64 has a flap that opens and a brake booster mounted behind the master cylinder.
I have been able to take a lot of parts off of the '63 such as the complete padded dash, door hinge parts and another glove box door. As for the hinges though, I really need to pull the lower hinge on the rear passenger door and the lower hinge on the drivers door. They take a large Phillips head. How on earth do you get these screws out? I am thinking I'll need a air wrench because by hand and electric drill it is not going to happen.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 08:24 AM
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You will have to take off the door card (cover) and oil the screw threads from inside. You can also try some freeze spray from Locktite, for instance, and a hand impact wrench.

A 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a good lubricant for loosening stuck threads. Let is soak for a few days and re-apply often.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wbain View Post
You will have to take off the door card (cover) and oil the screw threads from inside. You can also try some freeze spray from Locktite, for instance, and a hand impact wrench.

A 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a good lubricant for loosening stuck threads. Let is soak for a few days and re-apply often.
I'll certainly give that a try. I did spray stuff with WD 40 but I'm thinking something else may work better. I'll give your suggestion a try.
I did take the card covers off of the parts car. The first one went pretty rough and the card got trashed. But I used that as a sacrifice to figure out how to do it. All the rest came off nice and easy and complete so I have three card covers too. I did get the passenger side front door off. It was pretty easy since where the hinge is attached to the car is held with bolts. I have some parts to sell off of a '63 220S then I'll scrap the body. I may be able to save a fender or two but the roof, hood and trunk are beat up pretty bad.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 09:14 AM
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You can remove the rear door hinge pin and the door will come off, but the screws will still be attached.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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You can remove the rear door hinge pin and the door will come off, but the screws will still be attached.
I have tried tapping out the hinge pins and can not get them to move. On my drivers door the lower hinge pin is sheared so if i can get that out I can put a new pin in and be good to go there. The lower rear passenger door the hinge is actually broken off from where it mounts on the door. So again, if I can get that pin out and the piece off the door and a piece off a spare door I can simply screw that in and put the pin in. Seems simple. I'll spray it down tonight and try to get it off tomorrow.
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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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I have taken out the back seat and vacuumed as well as cleaned out the trunk and vacuumed it out. As soon as I get the door issue fixed I'll move on to taking out the rest of the dash. Any tips on how to get the padded dash off with out taking out the instrument cluster? On the parts car I didn't want to brake the dash so I had to man handle the cluster and cut the oil pressure line to get it off so that I could get the pad off. I really don't want to mess with my instrument cluster and there has to be a better way to get the padded dash on and off. Any advice?
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