1960 w111 220s - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Jul 2012
Vehicle: 1960 22os
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1960 w111 220s

So i came across this car on craigslist and had to buy it






After buying i am noticing a few things i would like to fix.
  1. heater always on left side of the car
  2. the fuel gauge does not work
  3. bumpers have rust and dents (steel wooled the rust off)
  4. needs new headliner (wondering how much that costs and what the original would have looked like)
now in my 240d this was an easy fix because the controls were in the engine bay where would i find the manual controls here i assume the cord rusted through or something simple like that.
The fuel gauge i have no idea where to start and would love some guidance and if i do need to be getting a new one where would i fine the correct part.
Bumpers seem easy to re chrome but with the dents in them is it smarter to just get new ones (or refinished).
the interior wood needs to be re stained, does any one have a diy to make them look the way they should?

i purchased this car for 6k so i feel as though i got a good deal, now my other question is would this be something i should try and flip and get into a coupe or sl type? I really like this car and don't think i would do that but if any one thinks i could get like double what i payed for the car i think it would be illogical not to but in the mean time i feel i should fix what i can, thanks for all the help
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 11:42 AM
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Vehicle: 1962 W111 220SE Coupe
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Congrats on your new car!
My personal opinion is you're on the high end of what that car is presently worth, so unlikely to make double, but you love it and it's a lovely car so that's not bad to pay for a terrific old cruiser that will last your lifetime. You can always trade towards a coupe or SL.

Heater controls may very well be the cables seized, you can remove the underdash panel with screws to expose them and hit with penetrating fluid, wait a while, then slowly and very carefully move your heater controls back and forth until you get full range of movement. That should do it.

Fuel gauge is more likely the sending unit in tank than gauge itself, tho could also be a poor ground at gauge. Sending unit is removed from top of tank via access port in trunk floor. May not even need replaced, some have luck pulling it out and moving it back and forth until it's freed up. BTW I hope you're noticing a trend here, on these old tanks it's more likely parts are old than broken and running the car in will do wonders. If it runs drive it if it hasn't been driven much and she will settle in.

All stainless steel bumpers available from Vietnam and sold by various folks even eBay, they scratch more easily than chrome and don't have 100% same reflectivity, look a bit more clouded, but as a quick resto for a driver they are more than suitable and will clean the car up. I opted to keep my bumpers original, dings and all, and spend the money elsewhere. Yours don't look too bad and once you get her cleaned up well, polished, wheel covers put back on, etc., they will be less noticeable.

Interior wood can be removed and refinished. Use chemical stripper for varnish, do not sand it off or you will wear right thru it as it's very thin. Clean all residue off with fine grade steel wool and stain with color of your choice, then clearcoat. I didn't even remove mine, just scraped clear off since it was flaking so bad, then oiled the wood using wood preservative, looks like a shotgun stock finish rather than glossy but I like it. While you're in there give the leather on seats and door panels a good cleaning with leather cleaner and then condition once you've removed much of that dirt. If it's a really hot day, put a dish of water inside and the heat after a few hours coming through the windows will "steam" the interior just enough to make the dirt and grime come up easier or use an actual steamer if you have one, keeping it away from controls, gauges, etc. If you go this route, use damp washcloth first, then leather cleaner, then use conditioner.

-Marrs

The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs)official website
The Coupe Group on Facebook


"Too many people are working at jobs they hate, to buy things they don't particularly want, to impress people they don't even care about." --Dr. Deepak Chopra

Last edited by DirectLA; 07-22-2012 at 11:47 AM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-22-2012, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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thank you for all the info, what do new headliners/interiors run? i was going to get a few quotes but have no idea what is normal and what isn't?

also how do you change the filter in the top vent (that allows air into the cabin?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 06:18 AM
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I changed the headliner on a W110 a couple of months ago. Its a new one but better you take it to an ulphosterer who knows the job, mine did it in 3 hours. If you need a new one I can get them here, either with/without sunroof. Its perfect, take a look at the photos after installing and before cutting the edges




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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 09:34 AM
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Hey congrats! My first (driveable) car was a '63 220S 4 spd on the column. Loved that car and it infected me with the vintage Mercedes bug that I have not yet seen a cure for, nor am I looking for one.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 09:41 AM
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Forgot to say. To install a new headliner you have to remove both windshields, install new seals, the problem is fitting the trim on those seals. Ive just finished a full restoration on a W110 and I know quite well the car and the problems.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-23-2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sciblades View Post
also how do you change the filter in the top vent (that allows air into the cabin?
On my coupe the windshield chrome is supposed to come off before you can access the last screws hidden beneath, but I thought on the sedan you only need to remove the screws visible after you have the hood up and take the chrome grille off. Get a second opinion on this before you start.
Even tho I didn't remove my windshield trim I was able to remove the chrome grille and front screws and still lift it enough to get in there and have just enough access. Use a long extension from a vacuum and really get the dried leaves and other grime out of the section beneath the filter as much as possible anyway. You can also buy the rubber gasket still that fits against the fresh air flap which helps keep more rainwater and debris out when it's closed.

-Marrs

The Coupe Group (W111/112 coupes and cabs)official website
The Coupe Group on Facebook


"Too many people are working at jobs they hate, to buy things they don't particularly want, to impress people they don't even care about." --Dr. Deepak Chopra
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 01:46 PM
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What are you going to do about that HORRID radio that someone shoved in the dash???

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoot View Post
What are you going to do about that HORRID radio that someone shoved in the dash???
i have a 1974 240d with an original becker radio so i am going to swap them out
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 08:21 PM
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Definitely
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