'72 250CE - worth this much? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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'72 250CE - worth this much?

Photos here: http://www.ecarlist.com/showroom/1429/photos/977661#19
Always dealt with W123 models in the past...
Thinking of changing my tune.
They're asking $2750.
Spoke with the dealer and he says no rust.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 01:20 PM
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First of all, it isn't a 250 CE. If it were a 250 CE it would have the VIN starting with 114022 instead of 114023. This car is a 250 C. The difference is carburation instead of fuel injection. There were no fuel injected 250 C cars imported to the United States. You can verify with a shot of the engine with the hood open but I'm pretty sure that is what you are going to find.

Having said that, and being the owher of a 1971 250 C, I have the following comments:

1. Wrong wheels. Correct wheels are steel and take hubcaps. If you switch wheels I would recommend the 5 1/2 x 14 aluminum wheels that take hubcaps.

2. Paint looks very nice in the pictures

3. Expect 12 - 15 MPG. Yes, really.

4. Check front and rear windshields for leaks. Rear windshield will leak into the trunk. Lower corners is the common area for them to leak.

5. Make sure heater fan and AC fan both work. Heater fan is difficult to replace. There is no separate knob. The same fan knob controls either fan. The temperature knob controls which fan is in operation, and also moves a vacuum controlled vent thing. If you turn the temp knob all the way to the left, you will be in heater mode and the heater fan should work. If you turn it part way to the right (colder) it will be in AC mode. The fan knob is the one right in the middle right under the center vents, the Temp Colder knob is the one to the left of the speaker fader knob. With the car running and the fan turned on, you should hear one fan go off and the other go on when you move the temp knob from all the way off to anything else. If it doesn't change fans, make sure that you are turning it ALL THE WAY OFF because there is resistence in that knob at the completely off point.

6. Look under the trunk carpet (and rubber if present) for rust. Look under front carpets for rust.

With respect to 114 coupes in general, I think it is a classy ride that is way undervalued. In my mind, it is a nicer car than a 123. It is a thirsty car and wants premium gasoline. If you care about economy, this is a bad choice. If you just want a nice classy car without a huge investment, this is a great car.

Door panels, seats, glass are all coupe-unique so parts may be a problem although parts cars in California are not that rare. The probably ARE rare in most of the country junkyards. Door/window seals may be very expensive.

That's my 2 cents! Keep us posted!

Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012, 02:55 PM
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I was thinking the same thing that Scoot mentions about about the "E" and was hoping to see a photo under the hood to see if it was a Euro fuel injected car or not.

The wheels on this car were available as accessories in period and I like them.

I just got a '73 280C. My car had WAY wrong wheels on it when I got it... chrome wheels from an 80s vintage 560 SL or SEL. But I am getting a set of polished bundt wheels from a friend in the MBCA.

They're not fast cars.. at least they don't get up to speed very quickly, but once you're cruising, they're pretty comfortable, reliable, modern feeling cars. I'm quite pleased... and... they're relatively rare these days... there are many, many more SLs out there, I wanted something with a little more character and a 280C fits the bill.

I had a 560 SEC, it's a neat coupe too.. but not vintage enough for what I was looking for.... I am organizing a vintage car rally www.walleye1000.com and needed something pre 1979 to qualify.

I think the car you're looking at is worth what they're asking all day long... as long as it doesn't have rust, that's most important in my book. I had to replace the trunk seal on my car, as soon as I got it... as it was dried and deteriorated... mine came from CA... so, some rubber was dry, but it's rust free. You can always work on mechanical bits and get the interior in order, but you must start with a non rusty car or it just isn't worth it.

I'd say go for it...!
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by QXwerty View Post
Photos here: http://www.ecarlist.com/showroom/1429/photos/977661#19
Always dealt with W123 models in the past...
Thinking of changing my tune.
They're asking $2750.
Spoke with the dealer and he says no rust.
Never believe what the Dealer tells you, he/she is trying to make a sale. Always check for yourself.

1973 Mercedes 450SLC (PineGreen/MahoganyLeather)
1981 Mercedes 380SL FORSALE (LtIvory/PalominoMBTex)
1984 Mercedes 500SEC Euro (040Black/BlackLeather)
1992 Mercedes 300SL-24 Signal Red/Black Leather
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