1977 mercedes 230 head gasket job today, head bolt specs? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: May 2011
Vehicle: 1970 Mercedes 250c, 1977 mercedes 230 (put to rest at a junyard she served me well)
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1977 mercedes 230 head gasket job today, head bolt specs?

I'm going a head job on this car today, I need to find out the wear specs for the head bolts. It's been next to impossible to even find the head gasket set for this car, but I finally got one after placing numerous orders for out of stock gaskets on various websites.

I haven't even been able to find a website that claims to have head bolts, and the car only has 121000 miles on it so I'm planning on reusing them if I can verify they are within spec.

Any information on this is much appreciated.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 12:55 PM
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More than likely they are stretch bolts, initial torque, 90 degree angle tighten then another 90 degrees. It's best to replace them with new ones. They are a dealer item.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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People tell me I can get parts from the dealer for this car a lot, maybe that's true in California or in the south, where there are still a lot of these Mercedes gassers from the 70's, but in the Northeast, Mercedes dealerships are not very interested in selling you some bolts that they would have to order from Germany. They usually just don't call back, or don't follow through.

I have never seen another 230 in person, and never found another one on Craigslist in or around my area. This seems to be my downfall.

If someone tells me where I can definitely get them I'd much rather replace them, but people I know who say they've done head gasket jobs on these cars say there is a spec for wear and reuse, so if I can find out that information, I'd like to do that too.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 02:33 PM
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Don't take that kind of crap from those dealers. Make them order the parts. Speak to the Parts Manager. Contact MBUSA and complain. MB does support the older models.

Then there is the Classic Center in Irvine Ca. It would also be a good idea to get a free EPC account, the Electronic Parts Catalog.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 06:04 AM
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It does help if you go to the (reluctant) dealer with the part numbers in hand.

The M115 head bolts are not stretchers:



But best replace them anyway.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Trying to make an electronic parts catalog account is the first time I've been sorry I bought a macbook, I guess I'll have to dust off an old pc laptop, definitely getting a free account. I guess I just have to bother these dealers a little more for stuff like that.

So I got the head off but ran into a problem. I've been using the mercedes manual hosted here: Model 123 Maintenance Manual Index

This is the cylinder head removal and installation section: http://www.mercedes.thatchermathias....115/01-415.pdf

It might have been obvious but since this is the first time I've done this, I didn't realize there was going to be an issue getting the timing chain through the head as I lift it off. The manual just says to attach an engine hoist, and shows a picture of a hoist attached with the timing chain and cog still on the head, which will obviously prevent it from being lifted off. They also failed to mention the outer and inner slide rails that prevent you from lifting the head all the way off. They do list impact pullers for those pins as necessary tools but don't describe their usage. I assume the other option is to disconnect the timing chain, but I don't have a new chain to replace it with.

The original goal in doing this job was to get the valves and ports clean (absolutely filthy) and change the valve seals. The head gasket itself was 100% fine but the compression is terrible and the valves are in really bad shape. It's going to be pretty silly if i can't at least clean out the ports and valves before putting it back on even if i end up doing the valve seals later.

Anyone got any ideas for me? I have everything detached, the camshaft sprocket removed, just the outer and inner slide rails are in my way.

Last edited by makinfrenzinmybenz; 03-11-2012 at 06:57 AM.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Well i figured it out, got it done and its running smooth. According to the manual there are two type of bolts, one w Allen heads that need to be retorqued after 500-1000km, and one with star heads that do not. I'm assuming this means that the Allen ones do stretch, and the star ones do not.

I have the Allen ones, so we'll see what happens with that. Definitely going to replace them if I ever do this again.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by makinfrenzinmybenz View Post
Well i figured it out, got it done and its running smooth. According to the manual there are two type of bolts, one w Allen heads that need to be retorqued after 500-1000km, and one with star heads that do not. I'm assuming this means that the Allen ones do stretch, and the star ones do not.

I have the Allen ones, so we'll see what happens with that. Definitely going to replace them if I ever do this again.
Are you sure you are reading in the Service Manual for the M115 engine? The above applies to diesels.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Did you click on the links? I thought maybe I put the wrong ones but If you click on the "Model 123 maintenance manual index" link it has the w123 manuals for 230 through 300td (all of them), and the second link is to a pdf download of the cylinder head job for the m115 in the w115 chassy, as well as w123.

Interestingly enough I discovered the use of the impact puller described fully in one of the manuals for the diesel models.

Another interesting thing I've learned from junkyard visits and parts catalogs is the water pumps are the same throughout the entire w123 chassy. I have had a water pump out of a 300d in there since last summer.

** EDIT: I was confused, yes the different bolts are from the diesel manual, but like I said there are an almost strange amount of similarities.

Last edited by makinfrenzinmybenz; 03-12-2012 at 04:45 PM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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I just drove it from Albany NY, to Holyoke Ma, (80 miles?) and then to work where I install solar panels and drove around to different job sites all day today. Seems to be running a lot better, much more pickup, cruising better on the highway, lower rpms, more speed. I didn't get to do the valve seals because I misplaced my spring compressor, but there was an unbelievable amount of gunk in the ports and on the valves. The intake manifold was far from sealed and there was basically road grit and sand in the ports. Much much smoother now.
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