68' 250s is a battery monster..wheres the leak - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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68' 250s is a battery monster..wheres the leak

Any one else have an issue with the car draining down a perfectly good/charged battery? Previous owner said it might be the clock, but it seems to drain fast..it also has a battery kill switch which I apply every night..

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 02:58 PM
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Open and stuck cold start solenoid relay? Check your glove box lamp too. Does it have any non-oem add ons?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Open and stuck cold start solenoid relay? Check your glove box lamp too. Does it have any non-oem add ons?
Not that I know of but those are some good starting points! Thanks

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 11:02 PM
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Make sure no one added an under hood or trunk light that may be staying on. Even still it sounds like a bigger draw if it's running down the battery quickly, but how fast is it draining exactly, overnight, a few days, a couple weeks? How long does the car sit between drives?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 06:48 PM
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With every electrical device off, pull one fuse after another and measure the current, or not, across the terminals. That will narrow it down.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys..I will keep you posted on my results. The battery seems to leak down within a few days. I am also suspicious of my alternator so that too might be a factor. I will do the fuse box test asap..

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 07:53 PM
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The alternator diodes could be bad. Check the junk yard for a modern BOSCH alternator with a replaceable regulator and brush set.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-10-2012, 02:51 PM
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With battery charged up, disconnect the Negative battry terminal. Place a multimeter set to measure Amps (start on the highest scale- If you have 10 Amp and 1 Amp scale, start on the 10 Amp). Make sure you have the doors closed (not courtesy lights), the key off, and any lights turned off. You should have at most 150 to 300 milliamps draw, usually the clock draws less than that.

If you have much more than that (and it sounds like you will), you will need to isolate the guilty circuit. Start pulling fuses one at a time and replacing them until you find the circuit that is causing your drain. Pull a fuse, check the meter, replace fuse if no change in draw. If your fuse box is inside, you'll have to first pull the fuse for the courtesy lights, so you won't be chasing around in circles when you open the door.

If you are going to work on old vehicles, a decent multimeter is is a must for dealing with electrical problems. Depending on your vehicle, you might want to get one that includes a dwell function if you have a point type ignition. Just don't get the $3.95 Harbor Freight special. You want something that will be useful for longer than 15 minutes.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-11-2012, 09:27 AM
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Have you had the battery tested? When the car is running, what is the voltage on the battery? When the car is off, what is the voltage on the battery? If the voltage on the battery isn't a couple volts higher running than off then I would suspect the alternator diodes - the battery isn't getting charged. If the alternator is doing its job then I would go through the fuses and see what circuit is drawing current.

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