Installing Hot Spark Ignitor - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Installing Hot Spark Ignitor

I'm looking for a write up on installing this into a W114.

Do I keep the same coil?

Do I remove the electronic box? under the left headlight?

I want a clean setup with as little of the old stuff left.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 05:46 PM
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The old box is gone. If you have a 6 cylinder or greater then you can use the existing coil. You can probably use the 4 cylinder coil, you need to ohm it to be sure.

I've been running a "Hot Spark" on my '74 M110 for a few months and no problems.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Do you mind posting a picture of that area of your bay?

Thanks.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
The old box is gone. If you have a 6 cylinder or greater then you can use the existing coil. You can probably use the 4 cylinder coil, you need to ohm it to be sure.

I've been running a "Hot Spark" on my '74 M110 for a few months and no problems.
Hi Mike:

I installed my Hot-Spark, today, removed the box and taped up the wires. I started the car before doing all this but the car won't start afterwards.

Did you have to jump any of the wires from the old box?

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 10:40 AM
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No I didn't need to jumper any of the wires.

Check to see if you have +12V to the "positive" side of the coil. You probably inadvertently disconnected the +12V from the ballast resistor. Turn the ignition to "run" and check for +12V at the coil.

If you have +12V then connect the red wire of the Hot Spark to the positive side of the coil. Connect the black wire of the Hot Spark unit to the negative side of the coil. Remove any other wires connected to the negative terminal. That's it.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike, I'll do this when I get home tonite.

Say, do you happen to have a picture of your dizzy/coil arena?

To make sure I got this right, I removed the box completely, and isolated the wires from touching each other.

What does this box do anyways?

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 01:18 PM
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A picture of my distributor area would confuse you more than help. I've converted my M110 to after market fuel injection and the extra wiring would just be a puzzle.

The original box was a transistorized "booster". It allowed MB to run only 6 volts through the ignition contact points thereby increasing their usable life.

The red and black wires leading to the distributor.

Installing Hot Spark Ignitor-im000855.jpg

The other ends connected to the coil.

Installing Hot Spark Ignitor-im000856.jpg


And that is all the wires required. You do lose the so-called automatic temperature controlled ignition retard feature which rarely worked. I didn't shed any tears over that.

Last edited by Mike D; 01-10-2012 at 01:24 PM.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike.

Still no voltage from the coils at all until I jumped 12V directly via another source.

I'll start tracing wires that I removed from the old box just in case.

Signed,

Befuddled in SoCal

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 05:07 AM
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Check for +12 at the ballast resistor. There are 2 +V circuits going to the coil. One is straight +12 ( energized by the starter when is engaged) and there is a lower voltage circuit which is the "run" circuit. This is the circuit which is "live" when the key is the "run" position.

You mention "coils", I'm hoping this was a typo and you meant coil.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Check for +12 at the ballast resistor. There are 2 +V circuits going to the coil. One is straight +12 ( energized by the starter when is engaged) and there is a lower voltage circuit which is the "run" circuit. This is the circuit which is "live" when the key is the "run" position.

You mention "coils", I'm hoping this was a typo and you meant coil.
Coil, sorry.

I only have one wire each going to each coil terminal before adding the HotSpark leads. DO you mean I should have two wires at the positive before adding the HS?

While we're at it , what ar the symptoms of a bad coil? I'm still battling a perfect running car when cold, but when warmed up, as soon as I place in drive or reverse it idles down and dies.

PS: Thanks.

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