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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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W108: Various Electrical Questions

I will be posting the questions that I have on electrical on this thread as I go along.

The first one is that I need to identify where this plug goes into.



I'm suspecting the alternator?

Thsi next picture is not very clear but it's the loom at the very top left of the picture, I can take a better pic later:



Also, is there a place online where I can get a free copy of the electrical diagram/ If not where can I buy one?

Thanks.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 04:47 PM
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There is a haynes manual on ebay item 140590783748.$25 free shipping. I have that same manual, it is very handy. I can (old school) mail you a copy of the wiring diagram. I'm not advanced enough to scan and post it.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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There is a haynes manual on ebay item 140590783748.$25 free shipping. I have that same manual, it is very handy. I can (old school) mail you a copy of the wiring diagram. I'm not advanced enough to scan and post it.
Thanks for the suggestion, I went onto Amazon and ordered one for $7.50

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 08:01 PM
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Yes, the first pic has the plug from the alternator to the voltage regulator. The other wire with the boot is for the 12 volts to the battery etc. Watch for crumbling insulation.

One day, you may find your car won't start, the starter won't engage. It's probably the starter solenoid wire from the ignition switch through the wiring harness that passes behind the engine to the passenger side of the engine. I've had two break on me, both '65 220SE's, one in the early '80's, one just a month ago. I bypassed the broken wire.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 08:02 PM
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What is the question about the second picture.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the first pic has the plug from the alternator to the voltage regulator. The other wire with the boot is for the 12 volts to the battery etc. Watch for crumbling insulation.

One day, you may find your car won't start, the starter won't engage. It's probably the starter solenoid wire from the ignition switch through the wiring harness that passes behind the engine to the passenger side of the engine. I've had two break on me, both '65 220SE's, one in the early '80's, one just a month ago. I bypassed the broken wire.
Thanks for the response.

So both wires, the plug and the one with the boot goes to the alternator.

I relocated the battery to the trunk. So I added a battery junction block to the firewall, and terminated the positive battery end from the trunk to the new block as well as the bundle of wire that was at the starter.



Missing the cable to the starter for now.

Doing this then leaves that starting wire at a bad location. So how did you bypass it, as I need to do similar.

On the second picture I want to know what those wires connect to.

When I bought my car it didn't have an engine in it and the wires were already loose in the engine bay.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 10:09 PM
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There will be a small wire in the same cable bundle as the starter positive wire from the battery, the original wire, and the supply wires back to the fuse block. Trace this wire and bypass it.

I hope you also ran a negative cable from the battery to the engine ground location. You really don't want all that current running through the chassis during starting.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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There will be a small wire in the same cable bundle as the starter positive wire from the battery, the original wire, and the supply wires back to the fuse block. Trace this wire and bypass it.

I hope you also ran a negative cable from the battery to the engine ground location. You really don't want all that current running through the chassis during starting.
I researched this extensively and I decided not to do a separate run of negative cable though I will ground the engine near the starter.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2011, 11:00 PM
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There is a bolt hole on the front of the trans tunnel. This connects a ground strap from there to the engine-trans adapter cast aluminum plate.

I recommend a seperate ground wire from the battery to the engine.

Near Manassas Va. '65 220S, 2006 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor, '99 Volvo V70, '72 350SL 4 speed

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. It's BRAKES not breaks. You break a bone, use brakes to stop your car. /rant

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html
http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-05-2011, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ktmripper View Post
There is a haynes manual on ebay item 140590783748.$25 free shipping. I have that same manual, it is very handy. I can (old school) mail you a copy of the wiring diagram. I'm not advanced enough to scan and post it.
Thanks for the recommendation, it arrived today.


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