Modulator Valve W114 Automatic Trans - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-29-2011, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Modulator Valve W114 Automatic Trans

I am in need of a preferably new Vacuum Modulator Valve for my 72 250. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2011, 06:39 AM
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The part number is probably A0002700179. They are still available from the MB dealer.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-01-2011, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, i appreciate it....
JM
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2012, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lancerevo5 View Post
I am in need of a preferably new Vacuum Modulator Valve for my 72 250. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
What does this part do?

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 09:07 AM
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Try transmissions repair places too. I had my 108's transmission rebuilt at Aamco for about $2k. If you need less than a full rebuild, you might be able to just order parts.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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The vacuum modulator valve is used on automatic transmissions to assist the shift points.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Got one new through the classic center. Trans works flawlessly... Thanks for everyones help!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 05:18 PM
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Thanks for the feedback.

What were the symptoms.

I have a 70 250 that idles well but stutters and dies when placed in drive or reverse.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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If the diaphram is ruptured it will suck fluid from the transmission into the intake manifold and smoke out the exhaust. In my case the vacuum side of my modulator was full of sludge from 40 years of driving, basically varnish from the intake seeping into the line and down to the modulator. A through cleaning of the modulator on the vacuum side of it cured my problem, but replaced it anyhow. My 72 250 W114.011 had the same problem when I purchased it, in my case with the dual zenith carbs, after adjusting the valves, checking the entire ignition circuit, replacing the points, plugs, condenser, checking the ignition wires, inspecting the cap & rotor, setting timing to spec. and running a compression test. I determined the the carbs as usual were the problem. After rebuilding these carbs for hundreds of customers, I know better than to run them on my personal car. The best possible solution is to replace them with the Weber/Redline conversion. It's about the same price as having yours (if so equipped) rebuilt by a pro. If you are not a real good carb man, these are purely not for the novice. The Redline Weber carbs perform way better than stock and tuned correctly get decent fuel mileage. There are other things that could be causing the problem, like a bad or failing torque convertor.
Hope this helps, If I still lived in Pasadena I could help...
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 09:24 PM
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hey,
Thanks lancerevo5. I live in Scottsdale/Tempe and have been posting an issue, that sounds like it may be similar, here to no avail. My issue sounds like a potential Trans modulator problem. It's at least worth a diagnostic check. What was your price point on the part?
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