Looking at a car in California, the car needs to run for 15-minutes each time it is started, I was told to prevent it from flooding, which it was flooded when I first went to drive it. Is this right or a sign of something else?
I have a 220SE and it won't flood unless the FI is misadjusted or the cold start valve on the intake manifold is leaking. I suggest you look at Welcome - Mercedes Benz 230SL, 250SL, 280SL Pagoda Group
. The engines are the same, the 220SE has a two plunger pump instead of a six plunger pump.
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. It also used the same type mechanical FI and ancillaries.
Also there is warm up regulator, with a cylindrical thermostat which increases the amount of fuel injected and air as well when cold, During warm up, the fuel is cut back as well as the amount of air. The throttle linkage needs to be adjusted to the correct lengths. The throttle stops on the injection pump and venturi must not be adjusted.
The car, on a fairly steep grade on a hillside road, needed to be floored until it kicked down to maintain the velocity needed, but it handled the hills well once it did kickdown. I know these are somewhat (insert sarcastic tone here) underpowered cars, but is it that slow that I would need to kick it down on in-town hills? Portland hills are not like SF, but we do have some grades, tho admittedly I took it up some of the steeper ones.
The best way to start uphill on a steep slope is to to move the shift lever to position 2. The trans will start in first gear and then shift to second.
The car is leaking engine oil and at the differential, are either of these a major headache? What is the expected repair bill in the western US? Also, the fuel gauge is erratic, seems like a loose ground wire perhaps, is that a common thing to fail?
Where is the engine oil leaking, front or rear, lower oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket? The differential seal can easily be replaced but needs a good shop to replace it. parts are available. The fuel gauge is accessible in the trunk. remove the rubber mat and you will see a white plastic cover. Remove it and the fuel sender is under it. Undo the plug aand unscrew the nuts. Pull out the sender and check the float movement. It should be smooth.
The front suspension will need to be greased, the driveshaft greased at the front and the sliding joint. There are also two grease joints on the pivot pin of the swing axle.
Finally, what is the cost some of you W111 owners in the US spend for basics like front and rear brakes and rotor (front has discs), and basic tune up items, wear items, suspension rubber, etc.?
Thanks to all who have input, I welcome any and all!
Brake shoes are expensive and you will have to send them out to be relined. The drums are expensive. Front disc rotors are pads are lower priced. Most parts are available from Mercedes and aftermarket. Beware of the non OEM brands.
Please post some pictures, overall and detail. One other thing, many components are used on the W108/9 and W113 chassis.