Please Help 1968 220D - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #31 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-21-2011, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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Changed Tranny fluid with some Dexron 3 and filled to proper level.
The car will now run when in gear and stopped.
It runs super rough, though. Can't be normal.

So I tried adjusting idle both up and down.
When I raised idle, it chirped the tires when put in gear.
When I lowered idle, it just dies like before, but more easily.


There is no electric switch under throttle that I know of other than the kickdown switch.
I'll take a closer look around the car just for giggles, though.
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post #32 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-22-2011, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Where do I get a FSM from, specifically?

What all would be achieved by adjusting the pushrods that go back to the tranny?
I know it adjusts shift timing, but could that help my problem in some way if it was adjusted incorrectly?
Maybe it's not going down into 2nd(first starting) gear?


Just throwing ideas around.
I'm running out of stuff to try.
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post #33 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-23-2011, 03:45 AM
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The USA FSM can be obtained from MB
Star Service CDs and DVDs

For the adjustment of the control pressure rod see here:

30 Accelerator Control - OM616
there select section A under 30-300.1 - Adjusting regulating linkage, vehicles with lefthand steering
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post #34 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Rods seem to be adjusted correctly.

Does anybody have a servie manual they could look in to maybe point me in the right direction?

What is to be said about the CD manuals?
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post #35 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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After calling around a little and reading some, I'm not really convinced that my Tranny is bad, knowing that I have correct fluid in it, it drives fine once up to speed, and does not have a lock-up torque converter.

I'm beginning to think that I may be having engine runnability troubles.
My car may not be idling low enough.
I'm going to start investigating that possibility for a while and see where it leads.


According to the last owner, the car was practically sitting for 10 years not being driven.
IDK how diesel is with this sort of thing, but could changing the fuel filter help me out if my car can't maintain idle as low as it should?
My car sounds like it idles at about 8-900 RPM, I think, I havent really got an ear for it yet.
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post #36 of 91 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 03:54 AM
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MB might sell Service Manuals, and they can be found elsewhere on the internet. The US version of the SM does not have a chapter about automatic transmissions.

You can buy laser rev counters relatively cheaply (put a white sticker on the crankshaft, point laser on the crankshaft and read rpm) so that you can check the idle and adjust. Idle should be between 700-800 rpm, with the engine warm (but not overly hot). A high idle could indeed cause the transmission to be more jerky when engaging.

A bad fuel filter must always be replaced, but it usually does not cause trouble with the idle, only with attaining high speeds (the filter causes fuel starvation).

A high idle on these diesels is usually caused by a leak in the vacuum chamber of the governor of the diesel pump.
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post #37 of 91 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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I guess the leak is always a pretty real possibility.

Here's more symptoms, if it helps:
When I start it, the idle fluxuates a little bit for about 20 seconds, but when it warms up, it smooths out right away. Almost like someone flipped a switch.
Also, when driving, it is not very responsive when you give it gas. When you put the pedal down, as if to accelerate, it takes a second for the engine to catch up.

Another way to describe my overall problem would be "dies when put in gear", just in case that rings any bells for you guys.

But what would make my engine so reluctant to idle at lower speeds?

Last edited by goatmurray; 09-04-2011 at 04:41 PM.
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post #38 of 91 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 02:43 PM
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The governor of the pump uses vacuum created by a venturi in the air intake. By pressing the accelerator pedal, you operate an air valve, whereby less air goes through the venturi, so less vacuum is created. A spring inside the vacuum chamber of the pump presses against the control rod of the pump, so that more diesel is injected. If you let go of the accelerator pedal, the increased vacuum pulls on the rod, and less diesel is injected.

At start-up, the vacuum chamber of the pump is still full of air, that has to be evacuated. That causes a loping idle. 20 seconds is a bit long though, that indicates a leak.

I think you must know what the actual idle speed is, and we need a check whether the vacuum chamber is leaking.
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post #39 of 91 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'll see what I can do to get my hands on the equipment necessary to check those two things.

It may also be worth noting that there is oil, I presume from the oil bath, that has coated the intake. I noticed it in the plastic tube running to the filter, but I'm not sure how far up it goes. Found that today...
Which reminds me. How do I service the oil bath?

Last edited by goatmurray; 09-06-2011 at 07:21 PM.
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post #40 of 91 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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I've got a non-contact tachometer on the way.

I'm going to try replacing the vacuum line before I go get a vacuum checker or anything like that.
I went out and just had a look at the vacuum line today and it looks like it is probably cracked in a few places. It's in pretty bad lookin shape.
I took it off to replace it, and MAN, is it dirty in there. Loads of oil inside the fittings and vacuum line.

Any special vacuum line I should use to replace it, or just generic stuff at the hardware store?
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