Please Help 1968 220D - Page 3 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #21 of 91 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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My glow plug kit and maintainance/shop manual still arent here yet.

After watching some youtube videos, my car may not be idling as high as I remembered. I'm still going to look into it when my glow plugs get in, but it had me considering what else could be causing my car to take off like it does.

When we looked at the car, my brother(idk why I missed this) noticed that the transmission fluid was overfilled. Knowing that this car has a fluid coupling, would my car suddenly jump forward when put into gear if there was too much fluid in the coupling?

A troubleshooting site says that "abnormal starting cycle" is the cause of too much or too little fluid.
Could too much fluid be causing my car to jump forward and possibly shift late?

Just throwing ideas around...

EDIT: After more research, the car acts like it has a locked torque converter that won't unlock. My car goes through all the gears, though.
Does this car have a locking torque converter?
Is this possible/likely?

Last edited by goatmurray; 07-31-2011 at 05:58 PM.
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post #22 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 01:55 AM
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It doesn't have a locked torque converter. MB used fluid couplings on their low-powered cars until the mid 1970s, because a torque converter would mean that too much power was lost. After they improved the torque converter, so that it could operate at about 95% efficiency at steady speed, it was used on all automatics. But this efficiency wasn't reached by locking the converter.

If your car has the original transmission, it should have a fluid coupling. I don't have experience in driving one, but I believe it should have more efficiency at low speeds, but it lacks the increase in torque.

Correct fluid level (and correct measurement) is step one.
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post #23 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-04-2011, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced my glowplugs about an hour ago.
None of them are blatantly out, but I don't have a meter to check.
The DieselGiant kit is in, but I have some wonderings about why the old glow plugs didnt work so well.

Here's pictures of the glowplugs that I pulled out, in the order that they were in the block.









If I remember correctly, No.4 was the only one that got very hot(remembering that they were wired in series).

What would make No.3 dirty like that while others are fairly clean?

Thoughts?

Last edited by goatmurray; 08-04-2011 at 11:59 PM.
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post #24 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-16-2011, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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With the new glow plugs in, it starts up every time. Engine runs a little rough for about 20 seconds, then evens out and runs great once it's warmed up. No noticable smoke out the exhaust.

I put the correct amount of fluid in the tranny(just drained a little) and noticed a slight improvement.
It still wants to stall when you put it in gear or when you stop at stop lights, ETC.
It shifts great, drives smooth, and is quite responsive once up to speed, but the torque converter still doesnt seem to want to slip as much as it should.

My current theory is that the tranny fluid the last guy(who admittedly didnt know what he was doing, but neither do I) put in the car recently is incorrect fluid.
I'm going to go get some DEXRON and put that in just to make sure.

Does this all sound reasonable?

P.S.: How do I rotate the torque converter drain plug so that i can get at it?
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post #25 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 01:15 PM
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It doesn't have a torque converter, that why it doesn't slip so well. Filter and fluid change can never harm.

You rotate the entire engine by a socket and rachet on the crankshaft front bolt.

One glow plug can have more carbon because the injector maybe faulty, check also the ball inside the pre-chamber on which the injector injects the diesel, or it can be a coincidence.
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post #26 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-17-2011, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Torque converter?
I meant fluid coupling.

I know these things are supposed to be pretty efficient at low speeds, but my car stalls pretty quick when I stop, unless I do the old 'california stop', but I can't do that at stop lights.
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post #27 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 12:28 AM
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Check the idle speed, increase the idle speed if necessary. It is done with the adjusting screw on the air intake.
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post #28 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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When I stop, the car still pulls forward, and this is when it stalls.
It's not stalling because Its not getting enough fuel.

Also, what kind of modern ATF should I put in there?
The dipstick says 'dexron', but they don't make plain old dexron anymore. They've got all sorts of new, fancy stuff.
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post #29 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 04:42 PM
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The engine has to overcome the resistance in the fluid coupling, so upping the idle speed might help with that.

Dexron II or III might work. Otherwise you'll might want to consult the MB Classic Centre, the fluid coupling might have specific requirements. Originally it was "Type A Suffix A" I think.
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post #30 of 91 (permalink) Old 08-18-2011, 07:20 PM
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I don't know about the diesels, but the automatic gassers of this vintage had a switch on the front carb throttle plate that actuated the 3 position solenoid on the transmission and allowed for soft starting in gear. They were sensitive to the position of the plate and you set the switch to cut-out around 1300 RPM. Check for something similar behind the gas pedal or on the pedal linkage somewhere. If you have this switch, it may be disconnected or improperly set.

The automatic gassers also had a throttle damper on the front carb that kept the car from stalling when coming to a sharp stop. Again, I don't know if the diesel had this feature but on my car it dampens the last 7 or 8mm of throw on the throttle linkage.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles
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